Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Pigeon Point,San Mateo Coast


Location: Southern approach to San Francisco Bay, California,on the coastal highway (State Route 1), 5 miles (8 km) south of Pescadero
Direction:
Coordinates: 37°10′54″N 122°23′38″W / 37.18167°N 122.39389°W / 37.18167; -122.39389
Year first constructed :1871
Year first lit: 1872
Active:
Deactivated:
Automated: 1974
Keepers dwelling:  
Foundation: Stone
Construction: Brick
Other Structures:
Tower shape: Conical attached to workroom
Markings: pattern white with black trim
Height: 115 ft (35 m)
Focal height: 148 ft (45 m)
Original lens: First order Fresnel lens 1872
Range: 24 nmi (40 km)
Characteristic: Flashing white 10s, Emergency light of reduced intensity when main light is extinguished.
Admiralty number G4006
ARLHS number USA-499
USCG number 6-0320
Owner:
Managed By

Journal

This was the first of the lighthouses I visited with my brother Eddie. I had been here many times before. It was one of my favorite places to photograph. The first time I came with Eddie, Jamie and Catherine, we had a fun time looking around, admiring the coast and generally taking in the sights. We had used it to break away from the mundane world of cares and sorrows. For me this part spiritual. To ignore creation and its beauty is really to ignore the great Artist God is. We are granted the ability to see color of blue in the sky, green in the ground, aqua in the waters. To feel the rush of air, or to hear the crashing cymbals of the waves as they rush headlong into the rocks upon the seabed.

Pigeon Point was the catalyst, as I said to Eddie lets photograph the lighthouses in California. His youngest daughter Jamie was excited. I watched as her interest grew. She started to collect shells, observe seals, and recollect stories from what she had learnt on filed trips for school. Each trip she became a treasure trove of information.

This trip we where least prepared for. No Coffee or picnic basket. We had to drive down the coast to find a restaurant. We found one a few miles away. We got back, spent sometime wandering about. Went into the gift store and spoke to the lady behind the counter. She said I should comeback in Nov 15th for the lighthouse lighting, she maintains its a special event. There is a nice hostel on the grounds of the lighthouse and a place to look out at the sea. Plenty of places for good photography. Anyway that's an early splurb about how we began this adventure. I am also posting a few pictures on thecareyhouse.net



History
1853: June 6th. The Carrier Pigeon clipper, a 175-foot long clipper ship with a gilded pigeon as her figurehead, was wrecked on the rocks. The captain and crew made it safely to shore, but the ship was a loss. After offloading a good portion of the supplies, the vessel, valued at $54,000 and still stranded on the rocks, was sold for $1,500. Since the time of the wreck, the point of land closest to the rocks that claimed the Carrier Pigeon has been called Pigeon Point. Previously, the point had been known as Punta de las Ballenas (Point of the Whales) as a whaling station was located nearby or due to groups of gray whales which passed offshore during their migration periods. Several other ships also sank in this area around the late 1860's. Three major wrecks - the American clipper Sir John Franklin in 1865, the British bark Coya in 1866, and the Hellespont in 1868. Forty-nine lives were lost in these three wrecks
1868: the editor of the San Mateo County Gazette wrote. "Pigeon Point is the most extensive promontory on the coast south of the Golden Gate, and which point seems especially adapted for a light-house. No other one place on the Pacific Coast has proved so fatal to navigators as this locality, and it behooves those most interested in maritime affairs on the coast as well as in the East to bring their influence to bear immediately upon the government officials, and never relax their efforts until a light-house is erected at Pigeon Point."
1870, the government purchased the Pigeon Point and Año Nuevo sites for $10,000. The owner, Loren Coburn, was a "shrewd, unscrupulous businessman whom many people disliked." (Perry, p. 26) He and his brother-in-law, Jeremiah Clarke, tried to sell the land for $40,000, but settled for $10,000 when the government threatened to condemn the land
1871: March, after a struggle to secure property at the point, Congress appropriated a sum of $90,000 for the Pigeon Point Lighthouse
1871: The construction of the lighthouse at Pigeon Point began; the nine-foot first-order Fresnel lens used at the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse was shipped to Pigeon Point. The concrete tower stands 115ft tall and appears as a brave sentinel looking out to sea. The walls of the tower are 4.5ft thick. It has a separate inner and outer wall; this provides insulation for the interior ironworks against corrosion. Pigeon Point is one of the tallest lighthouses in America. In early morning, midday or late evening the tower exhibits its glory against the blue skies of the San Mateo coast.
1871: September 10th.The Victorian fourplex building for four families and the fog signal station was completed, The steam whistle, with four second blasts separated interchangeably by seven and forty-five seconds gaps, was fired up for the first time. The steam whistle operated an average of 900 hours per year. The whistle required large quantities of water, collected in nearby rain sheds, to maintain pressure. 500,000 bricks were used to build the tower. it took over a million, the builders rejected the first batch of 500,000 for poor quality. Torrential rains and the struggle in assembling the spiral staircase, which had been put together by Nutting & Son in San Francisco, added to delays in completing the tower. After the lantern room was in place atop the tower, the delicate lens was assembled inside. The small building attached to the base of the tower contains an office on one side and an oil storage room on the opposite side of the central hallway..
1872: Nov 15th Construction was finished and the light was first lit On the top of the Tower.  The The Lens was manufactured by the company Henry-LePaute in Paris, France. The lens was placed in a lantern room that had been constructed at the Lighthouse Service's general depot in New York before being shipped around the Horn. ."Curtains were drawn during much of the day to protect the lens from sunlight, which can yellow the prisms. Pigeon Point has a tradition lighting the light every Nov 15th. 2012 this was discontinued for repairs, the Lens can now be viewed in the foghorn building.
first order 1000 watt Fresnel lens, which has 24 panels composed of 1008 prisms (had to be hand polished), had a 5 wick lard oil lamp. The lens stands 16 feet tall, 6 feet in diameter, and weighs 8,000 pounds.
To create Pigeon Point's given light characteristic of one white flash of light every ten seconds, the lens weighing one ton had to rotate a complete revolution once every four minutes. Once detected from a remote distance, this resulted in the lights appearance of one white flash every ten seconds. The rotation was mechanical, powered by clockworks and forty five lb. weight. As a proud Sentinel Pigeon Point was one of the first lighthouses to guide ships and mariners safely on their journey up and down the central California coast, it was located 50 miles south of San Francisco. Head Keeper: J.W. Patterson,
1873 – 1875 Head keeper Richard H. Fairchild
1875 – 1877 Head keepers M. P. Giles , Edward Leedham ,
1877 – 1878 Head keeper C. H. Howard,
1878 – 1879 Head keeper H. T. Holbrook,
 1879 – 1896 Head keeper George H. Cook,
1883: Besides looking after the light and fog signal, keepers at Pigeon Point also served as tour guides several days a week for visitors who came to get a look at the lighthouse. At least one keeper found some entertainment in this distraction as evidenced by a reporter’s account of his visit to the station recorded in an 1883 edition of the San Mateo County Gazette. "Our escort was of a very talkative disposition and took great pride in dilating upon the wonders of the establishment. As we stood inside the immense lens which surrounds the lamp, he startled us by stating in impressive tones that were he to draw the curtains from the glass, the heat would be so great that the glass would melt instantly, and that human flesh would follow suit; we begged him not to experiment just then, and he kindly refrained."
1888: The lard oil lamp is replaced with a mineral oil (kerosene) lamp.
1896 – 1901 Head keeper John McKenna,
1896: Ships were still sometimes lost near the point even after construction of the light. The liner Columbia ran aground. Residents salvaged materials from the lost ship, including copper wire and white paint. "Soon, every house in the area had copper clothes lines and a fresh coat of paint." (Perry, p. 61)

1900s, a separate oil house, which now contains an historic display on the lighthouse, was built away from the tower as a safety measure for storing the volatile kerosene fuel then used as an illuminant. About the same time, the original signal house was replaced by the fog signal building, which stands today.
1901 – 1910 Head keeper John E. Lind,
 1910 – 1915 Head keeper Carl E. Reit,
1911: The original fog horn ran on steam and was replaced by air compressed siren. The German schooner Triton was lost,
1913: The Point Arena was dashed on the rocks.
1915 - 1930 Head keeper John Nixon,

1924: October. Jesse Mygrants requested a transfer from Point Arguello to a station where his daughters could attend school. The Lighthouse Service complied and assigned him to Pigeon Point. One of his daughters, Jessie, recalls her father helping her with homework at a small desk in the watch room as the giant lens slowly rotated just overhead.
1926: The lighthouse was supplied with electricity. The kerosene IOV lamp was replaced by a 1000 watt bulb. The mechanical clockworks rotational system was replaced by an electric motor.
During prohibition, the isolated coast south of San Francisco became a popular area for bootleggers. They often used Pigeon Point's derrick at night for hoisting crates. A chain was flung over the telephone wires to short the lines and cut off the station - making the keeper's powerless to stop them. Keeper Jesse Mygrants was once forced at gunpoint to drive a rumrunner to town.
1933. Early. Mygrants and the other keepers were using blowtorches to remove old paint from the exterior of the Victorian dwelling when Jesse noticed that one of the nails in the dwelling remained hot long after the removal of the blowtorch. Putting his ear to the wall, he alarmingly heard the crackle of fire. Smoke soon started to issue from the dwelling, and its many occupants began scurrying to remove their prized possessions. The keepers bravely fought the fire until a fire truck summoned from Redwood City reached the station in a record forty-five minutes – a mighty fine time even with today’s improved roads. The damage from the fire was limited to the eastern side of the dwelling, that used by the Mygrants, and though they were inconvenienced for some time, a crew of workers patched up their apartment during the summer.
1932 – 1945 Head keeper Gerhard W. Jaehne,
1935: The siren is replaced by a diaphone.
1939, the Coast Guard assumed control of the station
1943: A radio antenna, which emitted a Morse code signal unique to Pigeon Point, was erected near the tower. The radio signal was eventually synchronized with the fog signal so that a mariner, by measuring the delay between receiving the radio signal and hearing the fog signal, could calculate his distance from the point. Before synchronization of the signals, a ship would use radio signals from multiple stations to triangulate its position.
1955 – 1960 Head keeper David L. Nimmo.
1960: The old Victorian fourplex, though still in good condition, was razed, and four ranch-style houses were built by the Coast Guard, clearly an aesthetic compromise.
1972: the United States Coast Guard attached a 24-inch aerobeacon on the front of the tower and the Fresnel lens was covered up. Seaman Albert Tucker served as the station's caretaker during the late 1970's. He and his wife kept an 800 pound pig named Lester, which proved sufficient to ward off would-be vandals.
 
1974: The station is automated.
1976: The system is superseded by a silent directional system such as radar.
1980: Four generic houses are leased to American Youth Hostels, Inc, for use as economical, dormitory-style accommodations.
2000: The Lighthouse Inn, a bed and breakfast located adjacent to the lighthouse property, was nearing completion, the Peninsula Open Space Trust purchased the inn and surrounding property. The inn was promptly dismantled and the property returned to a natural state. Thanks to this "undevelopment" project and other purchases by the trust, the area around Pigeon Point Lighthouse should remain in a natural state for years to come.
2001: Dec. The tower was closed to tours due to the breakdown of brickwork supporting outside access metal walkways at the top of the tower. Two large sections of brick and iron fell to the ground. Cast iron was used instead of steel, cast iron soaks up water instead of repelling it like steel, and the walkways became severely rusted, as are the major binding ring bands at the base of the tower! The California State Park system has promised repairs, but it is estimated that even if funds were available, it would be seven to ten years before the repairs would be completed.
2002: The lighthouse is listed for transfer.
2005: May: Pigeon Point Lighthouse was officially transferred to the state.
2010: July, Rep. Anna G. Eshoo (D-Palo Alto) through the Fiscal Year 2011 Interior and Environment Appropriations Act, $250,000 will be allocated to restore the upper portion of the lighthouse.
2011: Summer. California State Parks announced that thanks to a $175,000 grant from the Hind Foundation the first phase of restoring Pigeon Point Lighthouse would begin later that fall. The first-order Fresnel lens would be disassembled and removed from the lantern room on November 12 and 13, and will be cleaned and reassembled in the fog signal building, where it will be on display for the public. The $325,000 first phase of the restoration also includes coating iron on the tower with rust inhibitor, repairing broken windows and some other repair work. A complete restoration of the tower, estimated to cost $11 million, will occur when additional funds have been raised. The popular annual lighting of the Fresnel lens is interrupted for a few years, but California State Parks promises the lens will be returned to the lantern room in the future.
2011: Nov. The lens was removed from the top of the tower. The lens on the Veranda at the top of the tower is still an active aid to navigation for ships.
Pigeon Point perched on the cliffs of California, continues to be a tourist attraction. Photographed by hundreds of thousands of photographers, it still exhumes the breathe of days gone by. A rawness lays in its surrounding, one cannot deny the isolation the keepers felt, yet its only a short drive on highway one.

References
1.      The History of Pigeon Point Lighthouse, Frank Perry, 1986.
2.      Legacy of the Carrier Pigeon - A History of the Pigeon Point Light Station, Frank Perry, The Keeper's Log, Spring 1999.
3.      Pigeon Point Lighthouse, Perry pp. 24, 26, 28, 37-39, 61
4.      Umbrella Guide to California Lighthouses, Nelson p. 79
5.      The Lost Light - The Mystery of the Missing Cape Hatteras Fresnel Lens, Duffus p. 161-167, 185
6.      The Keeper's Log Summer 2005


Sunday, July 20, 2008

Point Bonita Lighthouse,Marin

This journey started from my house in Castro Valley. This was the second lighthouse we had journeyed to. We brought sandwiches, coffee, cookies and soft drinks. We first visited the fort area, the weather was overcast, it was interesting. As we made our way to the lighthouse, young Jamie was enthused to tell Eddie and me about the seals. She had a pair of binoculars to observe some of the seals in the cove. The trip to the lighthouse was a bit arduous. Even though we moved at a slow pace. My brother with a broken back and me with a bad heart. We made it all the same. I can honestly say the journey is worth it. The surrounding area and lighthouse itself. When we returned from the lighthouse, we sat at the back of Eddies truck and enjoyed our sandwich's and coffee.

Point Bonita (Point Boneta) a reference to the hills that looked like the hats of the priests of the early Spanish. is located at the northern entrance to the San Francisco Bay. Construction began in 1850's. During that time several ships ran aground,1853 the steamship Tennessee,1854 the clipper ship San Francisco, struck the rocks. 1854 was the year the most difficult work began on the lighthouse. It was located on the highest hill,approximately 260 feet above sea level and not easy to reach. It was located at the top of cliffs with a 50ft drop. The building consisted of cottage dwelling, with a 56ft tower. This housed a fixed 2nd-order Fresnel lens, it was the most powerful beacon of the San Francisco Bay. On 2nd May 1855 the lighthouse was put in commission.



Fog was a major problem in the bay and sometimes the light would be obscured by the fog. A cannon was acquired from nearby Benicia Arsenal with a keeper, Sgt. Edward Maloney, to fire the cannon as a fog signal. For 3 Days Maloney fired the cannon , resting for only two hours. A automated clockwork fog bell was installed in 1856.
The Lighthouse was moved in the 1870's from the top of the hill to Land's End - the far end of the point itself, this was due to difficulty of seeing the light from sea. In building the new lighthouse, A tunnel was cut through the rock to allow easier access to the lighthouse. The canon was replaced by a siren as the fog signal,t. 1874, the siren was washed into the sea during a storm. 1877 the new lighthouse was completed. The black lantern room and lens from the original tower were used, and the old tower capped. The new building was a one-story building with three rooms. The central room was built with heavy walls to support the tower. The tower was 33ft high.
1920's, Point Bonita's lamp was switched from a fixed to an occulating lens. An eclipser was installed within the lens which would block out the light at regular intervals.
In the early 1940's a particularly violent storm washed out the narrow path between the lighthouse and the rest of Point Bonita. A wooden causeway was built to bridge the gap. this was replaced by a suspension bridge, which still stands. (At present, park personnel stand at both ends of the ridge to ensure that no more than five people are on the bridge at any given time.)
Compressed air horns had replaced the old fog signals. By 1979, Point Bonita was the last manned lighthouse in California. The light was automated shortly afterwards. The station, is maintained by the Coast Guard. The original second-order Fresnel lens still graces the tower.


Walton Lighthouse Santa Cruz.


On this trip we where accompanied by Eddies eldest daughter Jennifer. She just came back from Ireland. The day started off a bit foggy, but soon brightened up. This was a short trip because we had to head back for a party in Eddies house. Some cousins living in Berkley who where from Mayo came a visiting.
Anyway we started off around 11:00 am headed down highway one, from the half moon bay direction. Of course the coast highway has its own scenic routes which makes the journey pleasant. Its always a pleasure to drive past Pigeon Point on the way. We stopped had some coffee, cookies and soft drinks.
We navigated our way to the South Side of Santa Cruz, its near the Crows Nest. Easy to find parking. The walk out to the lighthouse was beautiful and the scenery was pleasant and breath taking. We got see seals, which Jamie was delighted to see and some pelicans.









Late 2001, the Walton lighthouse was built in Santa Cruz. It is also known as Santa Cruz Harbor Light, it is built on the West Jetty of Santa Cruz Harbor. It is about 54 ft tall and house a green Optic. There is a nice restaurant on the way in, it serves a good clam chowder. It is also located alongside one of the most beautiful beach in California. The sand is white and soft and complements the lighthouse. Yachts and birds are constantly going in and out of the harbor. It got its name from Charles Walton who donated $60,000 towards the project.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Alcatraz Lighthouse,San Francisco


Alcatraz Lighthouse
Location: Alcatraz Island, California
Directions: The lighthouse sits off shore on Alcatraz Island. The only way to get to the island is to by boat. There is a cruise service that offers a ferry service to the island and tours. Make sure you buy your tickets in advance as the tours regularly sell out weeks in advance.
Coordinates: 37°49′34.44″N 122°25′19.89″W / 37.8262333°N 122.4221917°W / 37.8262333; -122.4221917
Active: Yes
Deactivated:  No
Automated: 1963
Year first constructed: 1852
Year first lit: 1854 , 1909 (current tower)
Keepers Dwelling: The structure was a cottage, a two-story building with a 50 ft lighthouse in the center,1909 STORAGE BUILDING IN THE BASEMENT OF KEEPERS
Foundation: Masonry
Construction: Reinforced concrete
Tower shape: Natural color with black lantern with Octagonal/Pyramidal tower
Markings/Patterns: NATURAL W/BLACK LANTERN
Height: 84 ft
Focal Plain:  214 ft above sea level
Original lens: Third order Fresnel lens (removed)
Current lens: DCB-24 (1977)
Range: 22 nautical miles (41 km)
Fog Horn: Dismantled; was an electronic Klaxon but originally was a bell
Fog Horn Characteristic
Characteristic: white flash every 5 s
Admiralty: number G4082
ARLHS: number USA-003
USCG: number 6-4315
Owner/Manager: U.S. COAST GUARD/NATIONAL PARK SERVICE


Journal
This was not the first lighthouse, my brother and I visited. It was the 3rd on our list. We had been to Pigeon point, a few times and then to point Bonita. Before this visit, we decided that we would make this a mission.Both for his daughter Jamie and ourselves. Of course we are not limited just to the 3 of us. We love to have others travel along. Collecting seashells, little furry seals, magnets and other junk along the way. Its not only about the lighthouses but the places we see as we visit the lighthouse area.

We headed into the city early Sat. Eddie from San Bruno, and I left my house from Castro Valley About 7:00 Am. I took the Bart to the Embarkedero and walked 1 mile to Pier 33. I took a few photographs on the way. I met Eddie, Jamie and Catherine around 8:45 AM. Barbara, Eddies wife had booked us on a tour of Angel Island and Alcatraz.

Of course she also loaded Eddie up with sandwiches and goodies for the trip. I brought the coffee, one flask of black (me) and one flask with milk (Eddie). We started our trip from pier 33, where interacted with a young couple with their kids.

The shot on the left was taken from the boat as we pulled in for a short visit on our way to Angel Island. It was taken with a Canon 5D and processed with Light room.
Sometimes you learn a little about your trips and you try to pass it on.

Everyone knows about the prison Alcatraz, known as the rock. It housed some very infamous people. Some people know that the military had a base on the island since the 1850's and also some know that the Island was occupied by the Indians in the 1960's. My mission is not about those but the lighthouse itself. So below is a little blurb on what I picked over the time I made my visit. As far as I know this is accurate. I suppose you could go to wikipedia and post a comment about any juicy information on the lighthouse.

Well I left out our visit to Angle Island, maybe I will come back and revise my post later on. But at the end of the day, we made a short trip to Pier 39, waited for a bus that came crowded and left us stranded, got a taxi for $3 a head, a cup of coffee, milk chocolate, and a strawberry frappucino in Starbucks.

History

Alcatraz Light house is the first lighthouse built in the State of California.Alcatraz island was named for the birds that inhabited the island - pelicans (alcatraces in Spanish).

1848, Gold is discovered at Sutters Mill

1849, The Coast Guard dispatched a group to determine the need for lighthouses along the West Coast. The Firm Gibbons and Kelly where awarded to build 7 lighthouses on the Californian Coast.

1851, The Oriole was sent around Cape Horn with supplies and a work Crew. 

1852, The foundation was laid in late in the year by a advance crew

1853 Jan 29, The Oriole arrived in San Francisco and the crew began work on the Alcatraz lighthouse. The structure was a cottage, a two-story building with a 50 ft lighthouse in the center. It was painted white with black trim and a back lantern room.

1853 Oct , a fixed third-order lens was installed.

1854 June 1, Alcatraz becomes the 1st beacon on the West coast.

1856 a fog bell was added. This was used when San Francisco's fog would render the lighthouse ineffective. Initially the bell had to be rung by hand, later on it was placed on an automated mechanical system. It also received a 4th order lens to help to show its was different from the lights of the city, because they where in close proximity.

1859, fortified military barracks is finished on the island, it served as a military prison and housed prisoners who celebrated the assassination of President Lincoln

1902 The 3rd order fixed lens is replaced by a revolving 4th order, The lens is sent to Cape Saint Elias Station in Alaska.

1906 the side of the lighthouse tower was cracked from the now famous earthquake.

1909 a new lighthouse was under construction. Its tower was approximately 84 ft . It was now powered by electricity and had fog sirens at both ends of Alcatraz island. The keeper's house was next to the of the warden and the doctor's. The Island now had a prison population, it was once occupied by the Military since the mid 1800's. The lighthouse keeper's had to co-ordinate with prison guards, when they needed to cross the prison compound to maintain the fog horn sirens.

1933 US Justice department acquired the island and changed the miltary prison to a federal penitentary


1963, the prison was closed and the Lighthouse was automated. The lens was removed and a reflecting lens installed.

1969 Nov, Indian occupy the island, the power to the lighthouse was cut off
.
1970 June 1st, A fire destroyed the Keepers house during this period.

1971 June 11, Indian occupation comes to an end with predawn raid.

1972 the Island became a National Park, today the lighthouse shines 2.5 joules ( about 200,000 candlelight) of light.

Alcatraz Lighthouse has shared its abode with worst and the best of mankind. Those murdered and those who saved lives. Those who treated life as dirt and those who defended life as it was a precious stone. It served for more than 150 years as a beacon to ships who entered San Francisco bay as light of hope.


Links
Inventory of Historic lights
WikiPedia Alcatraz Lighthouse
Historic Lighthouse information
References
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