East Brother Light Station

I suppose you have heard of Bay area back roads, its a TV program about the back roads in California. They would take you to obscure places located here in the Bay area,This trip was definitely based on one of those back roads. Our destination for pick up, was Point San Pablo Yacht Harbor near Point Molate, in Richmond a real obscure location. Once you turn off the main highway for Point Molate the adventure begins.

Our turn off was just before the San Rafael bridge, the weather was a bit overcast, but the fog was burning off. Eddie was driving, Jamie, Catherine and Jennifer where in the back of Barbara's SUV. Eddie and his family had spent the night at my house in Castro Valley as our trip was going to be one on the East Bay and we wanted to save some time. The morning sky had started out dull and grey, I wondered what it would be like at the Island, would it be windy and foggy, or would we see a clear blue sky and get to enjoy Gods beauty. Normally if Castro Valley is entrenched in fog, the bay is layered heavily in fog.

Everyone on the trip was excited that we where going to an isolated island, we had been to Island lighthouse before, it was Alcatraz, but it was too tourist and overcrowded with people, we also had the hassle of the city and no real scenery there and back. We had loaded up with coffee, fruit, soft drinks, and sandwiches bought at PW's local supermarket in Castro Valley. It was a healthy diet, no junk. No cookies, or potato chips. We are all watching what we eat these days.

It was a nice drive on 580, and quite scenic once we took Point Molate exit. You could see the Naval Supply yard, the San Rafael bridge and some military or navy houses, and ships now abandoned from the past. They had outlived their usefulness. Still unsure of where we where going we trusted the nav system as it led us around a few twists and turns on back country roads. Our instructions from the Internet was to follow posted signs to the harbor, but we where not seeing any signs in our path. We met a few guys on their way to the gunnery range and also looking for a baseball game. They could not help us. Not too many others where travelling this barren road.

We turned up a very narrow road, it led up a steep hill, at the top we had a wonderful view of the bay and we also got our first view of the harbor and the island. The harbor was hidden away in a small cove. Like a lost island, so close to the city and yet so isolated. We continued our descent on this potholed road. Some remnants of industrial pollution remained scattered around us. Huge rusted cisterns loomed atop of these hills. Nature was slowly claiming these eyesores back into her domain. We drove down the hill and the harbor came into full view, it was like something from Gilligan's Island. I mean you had to be there to believe, abandoned vehicles, trucks, tractors, buildings etc. I went into this so called clubhouse and saw one person sitting at the bar drinking. It was like something out of a Humphrey Bogart movie. I enquired about the boat to island and the barkeep said the skipper would find us and gave me a general direction to go in.

We met the the skipper of the boat who was to bring us to the Island, quite pleasant fellow and he did appear to the kind who belongs to urban life. We got aboard his boat, which was small and it was a quick 10 min's to the island. We skipped quickly over the surface of the water. It was refreshing as the spray hit us in the face. We had this lady sitting at the back of the boat with her dog. The would remind of a husky. As the island appeared in view it was very beautiful

We Docked at the harbor of the light station and climbed a ladder up to jetty that brought us on to the Island. This adventure was to be one of our favorites, we had the entire day until departure to roam anywhere on the Island. Only about 12-14 people where scattered about. We had ample amount of time to wander in and out of the building that was home to the lighthouse tower. Climb to the Turret that housed the current lens. We could appreciated the restoration efforts on the stairs, balcony, rooms, and building, how they where brought back to their Victorian style. Some people played horseshoe. We even got a good look and saw how the fog horn system works. The fog signal building had been restored with several systems from the past. Each of the systems where functional and well maintained by the volunteers. The Keepers building now a fully functional lighthouse bed and breakfast, holds around 10 people. It was a pleasure to take in the surrounding scenery and breathtaking views of San Pablo Bay. We had great views of San Francisco city, the Bay, and San Rafael bridge, boats, ships and yachts on the bay.This lighthouse is on my cards for a return visit.

HISTORY

Now for a bit of history behind this light station. 1870's preparation where made to build a lighthouse in San Pablo bay straits. A sum of $20,000 was set aside by congress. East Brother Island was not the first choice for the location of the lighthouse. The original lighthouse was meant for Point San Pablo, but the Landowners tried to milk the government for more money, the courts had decided $4000 was a fair price for 12.8 acres. After a series of debates, arguments, court actions, petitions by sea captions for the lighthouse. The Government found that it had already acquired land on East Brother Island for military purposes, and appeled to the secretary of war at the time. He agreed with a provision that the Island would revert back to the military for fottifications whenever it required it fro that purpose.

The Island sits on the North End of San Francisco Bay on the entrance to San Pablo Bay. It was during the Gold rush period and commercial traffic was making its way up the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, which where major links to the Sierra for supplies. The Straits became a Major supply route for passengers, mail and freight. Later the railroads was to take most business from this main route to the North. In 1854 the Navy built Mare Island a home to 700 ships. By 1870 the need for lighthouses was recognised. San Pablo strait, Yerba Buena Island and Mare Island. Buoys had been used to warn ships of hazards, but ships masters needed some better guidance during fog, night and storms.

Mar 1871, $20,000 was appropriated for construction of the lighthouse. A court case ensued because in San Pablo Strait land owners wanted more money than the government was willing to pay. The courts had decisded that $4000 was a fair price for the 12.8 acres in Point San Pablo, but the landowners apped the decsion. What looked to the mariners, that this was going to be a long drawn out case, and their need was dire. In 1873 a number of sea boat captains who growing weary from the process presented a petition to lighthouse inspector in San Francisco urging the lighthouse be built on East Brother Island since the government already owned the island. This petition was taken up by the Lighthouse board and they accepted it as it avoided legal issues of a long drawn out case. They had to get permission from the War Secretary as the Island was reserved for the military purposes. The Secretary of war granted fifty year lease, under the condition that it would have to give it up if the military needed it for fortifications.

January 1873, Lighthouse Engineer Molera landed on the Island to draw up plans. He saw that the supply of water would be a problem. So he he came up with the idea of having a large cistern to capture rain water and to use compressed air to operate the fog horn instead of steam. His plan was not implemented for the compressed air. Even though it would have meant that things would have been safer and less maintenance required. July the construction was started, the top of the Island was blasted to make way for plans to build the light station. The plans included a two story redwood Victorian Eastlake building, it was attached to a three story tower which contained the fourth order fresnal lens. The building faced east towards the rest of the island. In front of the buildingwas a concrte rain catchment building. Its architecture was in tune with the local building of the time. It wide overhangs,porches and sawn bannister's reminded one of a house on a seaside shore. It was also similar to many of the lighthouses built in the 1870's, Point Fermin is such a one. The Victorian building housed a 48ft tower which had a revoving fourth order Fresnal lens. It was to house 3 keepers with 2 families. The lighthouse was built of wood and bricks. The bricks was used to dampen the noise of the foghorn and protect against the elements of nature. In addition a wharf, cistern, boathouse and a outhouse was built. Mar 1st 1874 the lighthouse was first lit. Its brilliant beam lit its way across San Pablo Bay. May 1st before the foghorn had enough water to go into operation and their was misgivings not using Moleras design.

As integral part of the lighthouse is its keepers, an unusual breed of person. Until automation of the lighthouse they where essential to its running. They had to attend to lamps, fog signals, and other miscellaneous duties, day and night, you could say 7 24, all year long. They had to trim wicks, haul fuel,and keep reflectors clean. They lived in isolated and very difficult conditions. John Stenmark was such a keeper and one of the longest keepers on the Island, he served on the island with his family for 20 years. He had row to the mainland for a doctor to deliver his wife's babies. His family had a live in teacher for the children. At least twice a week he had to row to 2 miles to get the shopping and mail. The family had to like the Island they stayed for 20 years. They raised goats, pigs and chickens and had a vegetable garden. Annie who as a young single woman

1930's a cable was laid in for telephone service. After WWII the coast guard replaced the keepers with their own employees. They continued with their duties of maintenance operating the light, cleaning lens, operating the foghorn and checking the backup system, By 1946 the rain shed disappeared, much of the remodeling robbed the light station of its Victorian charm. 1960's saw budget problems, lighthouse cost had risen dramatically and automation was to replace much of the lighthouse maintenance. 1967 the lighthouse was doomed to demolition, it was to be replaced by a low maintenance concrete block structure. 1968 the Contra Costa Shoreline Parks committee stepped in to save the quaint pristine century old Victorian lighthouse.1969 the Coast Guard put the lighthouse under automated control but left the original lighthouse standing. 1970 the building was registered with the National Register of Historic Places. 1979 after a decade of neglect with decay and weeds taking over, a group of Richmond residents dedicated itself to restoring the lighthouse and making it accessible to the residents. In order to maintain the lighthouse they raised money through grants, donations and turned the lighthouse into a bed and breakfast, they called themselves "East Brother Lighthouse,Inc". In all over 300 people gave their time in restoration and bringing the lighthouse back from the brink of destruction.

Though lighthouse has echoes of the past, today it sits in the present and with the aid of volunteers it will have a future in tomorrow. Its a constant battle with the elements, and yet as you sit on the benches away from the rushing world you are transported in time to another era.

References
East Brother "History of an Island Light Station"

Western Lighthouses

Fort Point

This weekend Eddie's family headed off to Tahoe. I was thinking about going to Tahoe also to visit Rubicon and Sugar Pines lighthouses. But that was for another day in the future. On Friday I called Eddie to see how he was doing. His back is really causing him problems and he appears to be in a lot of pain. I said I was going to Fort Point on Saturday, immediately I knew the bug had grabbed him. He said to give him a call later on during the day.

This trip was to the Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco. As usual Jean prepared the coffee, it was loaded, and Garmin programmed We set off towards the Golden Gate Bridge. The Fort Point lighthouse is located right under the bridge at the South End. We parked on the hill near the Presidio houses and made our way down a trail towards the bay. The scenery around here is beautiful, most people make their way towards the Golden Gate and miss the breathtaking views of the Bay.
As we made our way down, I could see the tip of the Lighthouse under the Bridge as it sat atop the fort. I could also see the light flashing from Alcatraz. From the hill, I looked down upon the Keepers hut and the saving station. Their is a story that this the only place that both are on the same ground.
From where I parked my SUV to the lighthouse was more than 1/2 mile. The fog was in and the skies real grey. On the shore front, we met a couple from Galway. I took a picture of them under the bridge. Later on I met another family from the Midwest, and I took their picture outside fort point.

Today, I found out it was a history event day. The fort had a special event, in which people dress in costumes of the 1850's. The fort was garrisoned by The American Civil War Association. They brought the fort to life with the activity of re-enacting the Civil War. Dressed in colorful uniforms and dresses and suits of the day,they marched, and drilled with a brass band. Their activities included cannon, rifle demonstrations and talks on soldier life. They played the part of the soldiers and families that lived in the fort in the time of the civil war. I was to see soldiers marching drills, military bands, military quarters, and re-enactment of the telegraph.
On my way to the top of the fort, which was quite breezy and cold. I had the opportunity to make my way around the different corridors and also get a perspective of the lighthouse as it sat underneath the Golden Gate Bridge. I had my 40D with 24-105 lens and 5D with a 70-200. At each level as I made my way up the stairs, I could take my shots. What is unique about this trip is the fort itself. It is a well maintained brick building, keeping most of its character from the early days. Its a pity more people don't find this hidden treasure.
History

This was the second lighthouse in California, built in 1853, around the same time as Alcatraz. Originally the building was a California style cottage with a lantern room on the roof because the military decided they needed the area for defence they pulled down the structure. Its third order Fresnel lens was never installed, but diverted to Point Pinos. 1855, a new lighthouse was constructed between the seawall and the Fort. It was a 36ft tower which housed a fifth order Fresnel Lens. The exposure to the elements of the pacific ocean caused some major erosion problems and this lighthouse lasted only 8 years. When the seawall was repaired in 1863, the second lighthouse was removed.
1864, the third lighthouse was built. It was a 27ft, 9 sided, metal tower placed atop of the fort, anchored with cables to the bluff, which was 83ft above sea level. It housed a fifth order Fresnel Lens,a black spiral staircase was used to access it. A seventy-pound weight, which required winding every two and a half hours, was used to revolve a fifth-order lens The Tower itself was white and the lantern room black. This is the current tower, I photographed on this trip. 1902, the lens was upgraded to a fourth-order lens, which produced alternating red and white flashes.



The fog signal, was originally a bell, housed outside the fort and difficult to access. The bell was located under the gun emplacements outside the fort. The keeper had to climb down a ladder from the fort to get to the bell, which could be quite dangerous when the winds where high. This signal was considered by many as insufficient, it was not until some major shipwrecks, 140 lives lost with the Rio De Janerio, considered the worst, that something was done. 1904, the bell was replaced by a fog trumpet and in 1911 the trumpet was replaced by a siren.



One of its longest serving keepers was James Rankin, he served as principle keeper for 41 years and retired at fort point. He was acknowledged in saving at least 18 lives.



The fort that this lighthouse sits on is quite impressive, its architecture from the period is well maintained and holds a significant historical importance to civil war era. Even though it never saw military action, it was planned as the most formidable defence that America could offer to a naval attack on California. Its precivil war canons became obsolete, they never fired a shot in anger or warfare, it was remodeled as a detention barrack during WWII,it was used to house unmarried officers and trade schools.



In the 1930's when the Golden Gate bridge was being built it was recommended that the Fort be demolished, which would have also meant the end of the lighthouse. Chief engineer, Joseph Strauss saw the architectural significance of the fort and drew plans which safely allowed construction to build over the fort. Due to construction in 1934 the lighthouse was turned off.It had survived many a change including the 1906 earthquake, but the bridge overshadowed it and obscured its light. 1959 a group of retired military officers and civil engineers created the Fort Point Museum and got it recognised as a Historical site.
References
Umbrella Guide to California Lighthouses (2nd ed.)
Fort Point Lightkeepers

Point Reyes Lighthouse, Marin

This started out early in the day. I drove to Eddies house in San Bruno. Around 10:00 am on Saturday we set out. First stop at Quiznos for sandwiches and soft drinks. A refill of coffee at Starbucks. Our directions was simple across Golden Gate bridge, off at Sir Francis Drake blvd and drive for about 30 miles. Well, no so simple, we saw that the exit was the second exit off 101. Then we came upon a confusing sign which said the next exit was the one. So we assumed the next exit, and immediately knew we where going the wrong direction. We sat in a parking lot, let Catherine program the Nav. Eddie had a smoke and we went to find a Starbucks. We entered a cafe which was full of Mexicans, This was an area where Mexicans hung out in order to get work.


Well we headed back to the SUV, and prepared to get on our way. The Nav unit guided us back to 101. and on our way to Point Reyes. Drive through Marin is real beautiful a lot different than our excursion down the Santa Cruz coast. We had a range of sights, from cattle grazing, rolling hills, rivers and quaint towns. We stopped in one town on the way there and another on the way back. As I said before the adventure is in the journey. We spent a hour in a little town called Inverness. Their was an abandoned boat called Point Reyes. I just wandered around taking some shots. The boat, the town, the bay (Tomales) and the woods all had a picturesque view. Eddie went off with the kids to ramble in a few stores. I also managed to pick up a few shells for Jamie.
I met another photographer and chatted for awhile. She told me her family had come from Cork. I also met a few other girls who where shooting and gave them a few tips on the boat. I am never happy with the way I shoot. Wide angle, telescopic, whatever I have on my my camera at the time, is never enough. So the weather was beautiful as we continued on our Journey. Cyclists, campers, kayaks, fishermen, all where enjoying themselves. A real good place to bring the family.

We where a short distance out of Inverness we noticed a dramatic change in the weather. Visibility was reduced and the temperature dropped. We continued to drive through rugged ranch land. You need to be prepared for the stench from cows dung. Finally we arrived at our destination, we all put on warm clothes and got ready for the 1/2 mile hike in. We dropped into the visitor center and bought a few trinkets. We looked at the steep climb down, the sign said it was equivalent to 30 stories, and our visibility was real bad. At the top of 308 steps we could not see the lighthouse, nor could we see the all the steps. I spoke to my brother Eddie and thought that he should not make this trip, as the climb back up would be so strenuous on his back. So loaded with a canon 5D and 40D, lens 100-400 and 24-105 I started to make my way down the steep descent. Eddies kids where in front and they seemed to be having a great time. Its a pleasure to have children who enjoy these outings. This is our sixth lighthouse and their enthusiasm is still very high.

Point Reyes lighthouse is located in a harsh place. Winds howl past the point sometimes 133 mph, cold temperatures enough to freeze your bones are the norm and a dense fog encapsulates the lighthouse for most hours in a year. It is noted that this area is the foggiest and windiest in all of California. Then you have a steep steep climb of 320 steps to get back up the top of the cliff from the lighthouse, the climb is not for the feeble or the weak. Keeper E. G. Chamberlain once said it best "Better dwell in the midst of alarms than reign in this horrible place". This is truly a rugged terrain and you wonder what kind of men worked out here. Not only to man the lighthouse but to build it. Surrounded on all sides by steep cliffs and harsh weather conditions. A person would have to be dedicated or have the mind of a hermit to live here. It is noted that many of the keepers struggled with alcholism and mental stability. At times they where found dead drunk at the top of the hill. I had no sooner reached the last of the steps when the lighthouse enclosed in the fog came into view. It was worth the climb down to see it. It was perched at an extreme westerly point on the cliff, on a very narrow peninsula, I would say the tower was about 125 ft above sea level. The environment of the building did not look that enticing or friendly. It had a charm that came hauntingly from yesterday. Tough and proud and one that took on the toughest that nature had to throw at it, and still it stood.

I looked behind and here was my brother Eddy. He had hobbled his way down the steep descent. Maybe he would made a good keeper of the light. Who would believe that this man has a broken back. I dreaded the climb back up to where the original living quarters for the keeper was, for his sake. Luckily every 100 steps there is a place to rest and I knew I was going to use them. We done our usual thing, group pictures and looking at the feat of men and the accomplishments of what these lighthouses had done. I guess you could say we have the lighthouse bug. I am sure that this will be the beginning of a tough and arduous journey, who knows who we will meet and what we may discover and what has started as a summer adventure may well turn into a lifelong quest.

A Lighthouse's prime function is to provide mariners safety by warning them of impending danger from the rocks and reefs, and by indicating their location sailors can navigate their way safely along the coastline. For such a purpose was Point Reyes lighthouse built. It coast was treacherous and dangerous many a ship had met its tragic end on Point Reyes rocks. Point Reyes had its funds allocated in 1854 for the building of the lighthouse, but it faced many obstacles in its construction. The civil war, ranchers and their unfair demand for the price of the land and construction difficulties. 1869 a deal was struck with the ranchers for the purchase of 83 acres of land for the lighthouse. The original intention for the building was a traditional Cape Cod style lighthouse.

It was Dec 1 1870 before Point Reyes first shone its light on San Francisco Bay. The light shone through 24 prisms unto the ocean floor. The First Order Fresnel lens and its mechanism was constructed in France in 1867. The Fresnel lens was the largest of its size, it bent the light through 24 prisms panel,. which where operated by a 6000 lb clockwork mechanism.The mechanism rotates a full cycle every 2 minutes. and the light shines out every 5 seconds, its a Point Reyes signature. Also the Foghorns have been known to operate for more than 2000 hours in a year. They are important when the fog is so thick that the light cannot be seen, they provide the audible sound for the ships entering and leaving San Francisco Bay.

Today the brass clockwork mechanism is kept in pristine condition, it looks absolutely beautiful and well maintained since it made its way around the tip of South America to Drakes Bay. Along with the glass prisms and the Iron Tower it was hauled 3 miles to the point, 600ft above where it now stands. To be effective the lighthouse had to be lower than the consistently high fog. The Tower stands erect about 35ft, and occasionally the wicks of the lanterns are lit the first Saturday of every month. Its light shines out to sea about 24 miles and it can be seen every 5 secs. Below the tower about 100 ft sits the fog horn building, it is operated by steam and large cisterns are built to supply it with water. The site for the lighthouse had to be cleared with dynamite. Several times the fog horn building had been burned, it was also a major task in getting coal and water to it. 1915 It was replaced by a diaphoe fog signal and in 1935 both Lamp and Fog horn where replaced by electricity

Today the original lighthouse is well maintained for the visitor. The craftsmanship and the ambiance of the day of the day it was created and operated is well kept. The brass workmanship is quiet impressive and you can appreciate the danger of this Job. also you can see the automated system just outside the lighthouse and on top of the building's roof just below the tower.

For a short period of time the fog lifted, allowing me to capture some nice shots, most all will not appear. The coastline, the dear, the people going up and coming down the path, the pictures coming and the pictures going, but still part of the journey. Most of this stuff comes form reading a few books and a few other sites. My way of giving them credit is to post a link to them, the link is sometimes in the heading.

So don't forget comeback and read these, as I find out more information I will add it, someday I may want to make a book and then I will have cite my references. So no plagiarism is intended. Here is a book to read "California Lighthouse Life" great photos. All the photos here are mine, and can be purchased.

Mark Abbott Lighthouse,Santa Cruz

It was a beautiful Saturday morning, I set off to meet my brother in San Bruno. This day we where not sure if it was going to be Point Reyes in Marin or Mark Abbott in Santa Cruz. I arrived at his house around 10:30 AM accompanied by my daughter Lydia. She decided on staying and visiting with her cousin Laura.

We had a new traveller with us today Bryana, she is Catherine's friend. We where now up to 6. Loaded with our picnic basket, full of soft drinks, sandwiches, cookies and coffee, we headed off towards Santa Cruz.

These journeys are as much about the adventure as it is about the lighthouse. So we took the scenic route, 92 to Half moon Bay and down highway 1. A journey full of beautiful scenery and interesting views. As we drove the coast highway we could hear the joyful laughs and songs of the children in the seats behind us. Age does not discriminate who is a child. But it is the innocence and joy of the heart.

We came upon Pigeon Point and we of course had to stop. We took a break for a cup of coffee and a fag for Eddie. The kids managed to get to the beach and Jamie picked some shells from the beach. She has collected shells from every beach that has a lighthouse. I took some more photographs of this lighthouse and I suppose I will take more.

From there we headed on to Santa Cruz, I had a vague idea of where I was going. I knew we had to turn right on Bay Street and at some some stage Right on West Cliff Dr. Our navigational system was not much help, so Catherine phoned Barbara and we got directions. It was as I had figured out. But better safe than sorry.

We arrived at the lighthouse. It is a beautifully located lighthouse. Located on the beach and within viewing distance of Walton Lighthouse. The Boardwalk is situated between both lighthouses and is most scenic. It is very postcard scenic, sail boats, kayaks, surfers, trees, pelicans, seals, blue water and blue skies.

The Lighthouse stands on the West side of Santa Cruz harbor. North of Monterrey. The lighthouse was built in 1869. It's light came a fifth order Fresnel lens, and was first on December 31. The light was changed from white to red to differentiate from the neighboring community lights in the vicinity. Today the original lighthouse is gone, In 1878, the lighthouse was threatened by the decay of caves underneath the lighthouse, so it was moved 300 feet inland. It was moved by placing the lighthouse on rollers. 1909 the lens was replaced by a fourth order lens, and again 1941 by an automated system. During the war, the lighthouse was used as a lookout post. 1948, the lighthouse was torn down, an automated wooden tower was left.

1965, a young surfer Mark Abbott died while surfing near Lighthouse Point. His family erected the brick lighthouse in honor of his memory. the lantern room houses a working optic with a red tint. Today the lighthouse houses the surfers museum. Like many lighthouses it is threatened by corrosion and it would be a pity to lose a beautiful landmark.

The area is beautiful, we drove up the West Cliff Dr, and enjoyed the great homes and the coast lines. We finally drove to the harbor near Walton's lighthouse and had lunch. We stayed for a few hours on the nearly deserted beach within view of the Boardwalk. Children where left to themselves as they frolicked in the water and played in the sand. Visiting lighthouses is not just the lighthouse but the area surrounding, it becomes the adventure of discovery. Collecting little artifacts along the way, observing animals, birds and the environment. Finding the story behind the lighthouse itself. Who where the keepers and why. Why was the lighthouse built, did it have fog horns, I could go on and on.

So to finish we took the scenic route home and caugth the sunset on pigeon point. It was stunning and it brought a beautiful finish to my days. It also brought a quandry to my mind. I want to photograph these lighthouses at dawn, sunset and night, summer and fall. Some I will, but sadly not all. 3 lightouses, 2 beaches, a harbor, seals, pelicans and a sunset, now how cool is that.


Please join me on my next adventure.