Carquinez Strait/Glen Cove Marina

Location
Located between Suisun Bay and San Pablo Bay, not far inland from the Carquinez Bridge, once sat the beautiful Carquinez Strait Lighthouse. This fabulous structure was moved to its present location in Elliot Cove just over a mile from its original home on August 6, 1955.
Direction
The Lighthouse now acts as home to the Glen Cove Marina. Take Interstate 80 to Interstate 780 in Vallejo and go south towards Benicia, exit on Glen Cove road and go south. Turn left onto Glen Cove Parkway and take a left on Glen Cove Marina Road which ends at the marina


Journal
The day started out with a deep blue sky, the yellow golden orb hung low in the sky and its rays reflected against the green Eastbay hills. The drive to Carquinez, took over an hour from my home in Castro Valley. I came prepared with my flask of coffee, some sandwiches, my netbook and of course my cameras. I Plugged my iPod into aux input in my SUV radio and I was on my way. The drive was proved to be uneventful, freeway all the way; I never really left suburbia, so I was left wanting my fix on nature.


When I set out on these journeys, I never know what direction my mind will go in or what my influence what I shoot. This time I noticed as I was driving, the marring of the countryside, by large round oil storage tanks, I assume was used for oil refinery. I noticed smoke stacks and lots of trucks spewing out junk. There is a lot of pollution in and near Benicia; I assume the refineries and industrialization was here first and the people came later. Also I assume that when the refineries first set up shop, they probably thought they where far enough away from civilization to cause harm. People will always park their bodies near jobs, not thinking about consequences of pollution on the health of their families. I felt sad to see the beauty of the surrounding nature compromised by industrialization and urban sprawl. I realize that I am a guilty party to the urban sprawl; I have my house on the Castro Valley hills, it was once a nice rolling countryside and home to animals, it is now an eyesore of Modern, upscale single family dwellings. I don’t ever believe we will see a balance between the needs and wants of people and the protection of the natural land.


I pulled off the freeway and into a well to do neighborhood. It was easy to note that the houses here where built in the height of the housing boom. The road to the lighthouse led me through upscale housing estate and into a small picturesque harbor located in Glen Cove. I parked at the rear of the lighthouse, took out my camera and started to take some precursory pictures. I made my way around the structure, but not into it, as I was not sure if I was trespassing. I went into what I thought was a café, but found that the café had closed; it was the yacht clubs office. I excused myself and backed out.

Outside I met two affluent men lounging on lawn chairs, dressed in khaki shorts, leather sandals, colorful shirts, and dark sunglasses and enjoying the peacefulness of the marina, they where here to spend some time with another friend at the cove. One of the men said he was to advise the owners of the cove about creating a vineyard in the surrounding property. Their boat arrives and both He and his friend headed off for the afternoon sailing. At the same time I noticed that the yacht club was also holding a barbecue get together, they had some beer, wine, and games. I went by them as they settled down to party for the day.


At the end of the pier, I took the opportunity to find an area near the entrance of the harbor to park myself and contemplate about my shoot and the extraordinary people who where lighthouse keepers, both men and women. It was an age that has come and gone. They had felt the loneliness, and isolation of these stations and these stations bore witness to their grittiness. They where not quitters and knew the concept of duty and sacrifice. They brought their families and animals to these lonely outposts. Often times their was no communications with the outside world, but eerily sound of the foghorn, Blahhh, or the ring of the bell, I can hear the sound in my inner ear as i write, and the light of the beacon shining out to sea, warning and guiding mariners of the dangers of coming too close to shore. Deep in my thoughts I made my way to one of the bay trails that ran to overlook the straits of the bay. I trekked my way around the bay to the top of the hill, overlooking the Carquinez Bridge and Mare Island. It was a strenuous climb to the top of the hill, many false ridges was before me.


The view of the strait from the top of the hill was breath taking; I was able to make good use of my wide angle lens. Looking down from my high perch on the hill, I observed ships docked along the strait. Alongside each of the ships were buildings with towering stacks spewing out smoke into the atmosphere. What they where spewing I don’t know, it was some form of pollutant, and it did not look good. I also thought the upscale and exclusive houses around here, I would not like to be living next to such polluters. Breathing must be a problem specially for children and anyone suffering from asthma. I thought of the giant trees that reached into the sky and the freshness they brought to world and juxtaposed was these monstrosities’ killing us and the environment. I don’t contribute to man made global warming, but I am very concerned with the pollution that is created. I am not sure what the right answer is, but I believe we have to take some precautions before we damage the environment our children are coming into. We are meant to be protectors of the planet, not just consumers.




Looking down from my lofty position, I watched as traffic made its way across the bridge, I looked down at the people and they moved like ants to a ant hill. Just streaming to and fro, into a store and back out. The cars and trucks continued to pour across the bridge, being so high up I was oblivious to their sound. I spent awhile on the hill and noticed a few other pollutants, beer bottles, broken glass, signs of drug use and graffiti. When urbanites sprawl, we also bring our dark side with us. I made my way back to the lighthouse with a saddened heart.


When I arrived back at the Marina, I spent some time chatting to the Yacht Club people. It was interesting in hearing their connection with the lighthouse, they where fascinated with its history and its original location, several asked for my blog. I hope if they read this, I enjoyed their company. I got back to my SUV, pulled out my coffee, sandwich's, and netbook, sat in a veranda, enjoyed my snack and time on the Internet. Netbook is a good tool, I have to find a way to install a program to look at my images before I leave a location. Satisfied I headed back to civilization, and anticipated my next trip.

History
By the middle 1800s, the number of commercial & navy ships from San Francisco to Napa, San Joaquin, and Sacramento Rivers increased, This was due the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill, and the Navy building a base for its Pacific Fleet at Mare Island. Ships heading this way would sail through San Francisco and San Pablo Bays. At the east end of San Pablo Bay, ships would approach the narrow confines of Carquinez Strait where they could head north to the Napa River to reach the Navy Base at Mare Island, or head east through Carquinez Strait and Susuin Bay to reach the gold fields of Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers. The lighthouse service saw the need for a lighthouse.
1873, The Lighthouse service selected a site on the South end of Mare Island. A wooden Story Victorian Building with a gabled roof was constructed. Mare Island was the 1st beacon to score the opening to Carquinez Strait and the Napa River.. The Mare Island Lighthouse was kept by LightKeeper Mrs Watson, later replaced by Kate McDougal. Kate’s husband, Charles McDougal, served as an inspector for the Lighthouse Service, his father was third commandant the Naval Base at Mare Island.

1881,Mar 28th Charles McDougal onboard the lighthouse tender Manzanita travelled up the California coast. One of the lighthouses to be inspected and the light keepers to be paid was the Cape Mendocino lightstation, laden with a money belt filled with gold coins he boarded a small boat headed to shore. Before reaching the shoreline the boat capsized at the breakers and McDougal along with two other crewmen drowned. His body was recovered and sent to his bereft widow Kate who lived on Mare Island with 4 children.
Shortly after the drowning, Mrs. Watson Mare Island lightkeeper resigned, and Kate McDougal took over as lightkeeper. She was to serve as lightkeeper for the next 35yrs on Mare Island. Navy officers from Mare Island arranged for a telephone line to be strung from the Naval Yard out to the lighthouse, for Kate’s first Christmas at the station. This eased some of the loneliness that can be experienced at the station.

1901, Lighthouse Board in a report to congress saw the need for a light & fog signal at the North western end of the Carquinez strait, they realized that a beacon positioned offshore near the junction of the Strait and the Napa River would better serve ships in the region.
1902, the request was repeated.
1903, the request was repeated.
1904, the request was repeated. It was accompanied by the suggestion that the funds for the Santa Monica Lighthouse be used.
1907, March 4th, Congress appropriated $50,000 for a light and fog signal station at Carquinez Strait.

1908, Aug, The construction of a 1 ½ mile pier was constructed, a steam pile driver was used to drive 100s of wooden piles into the strait’s muddy bottom. At the very end of the pier, a wharf was built to which the lighthouse tenders landed supplies. Near the end of the, a causeway was built which led to a large, rectangular planked platform built on a network of pilings to support the lighthouse.

1909. A spacious 28 room, 2 ½ story wooden building with an attached 3 story tower to its west side was built. A fog signal building was also built and extended south towards the strait. A large veranda wrapped itself around 3 sides of the building, it was supported by sturdy wooden columns, the northern side of the building, had large dormers built into its gabled roof. This lighthouse with its 28 rooms housed 3 keepers and their families.
1910, Jan 15th A new sentinel of the bay shone its beacon. The red light shone from a fixed, 4th order Fresnel lens in the lantern room of the Carquinez Strait Lighthouse.
1917. Mare Island was discontinued and abandoned.
1930’s The lighthouse on Mare Island was razed, it had stood vacant since it was discontinued,today nothing remains.
1941, Nov, the end of the steam paddlewheel service to the central valley, The Delta Queen came down the Sacramento river for the last time.

1951 Carquinez was deactivated, it was replaced by a smaller beacon and fog signal at the end of the now extended pier.
1955, the 28-room dwelling with the Fresnel lens was offered for sale to Robert Hubert, a building contractor from San Francisco. His intention was to make it the center piece of a small marina

1957, Mr Hubert attempted to move the 150 ton lighthouse by barge to the cove. While moving the lighthouse Mr Hubert was injured. The move was halted until he had fully recuperated. During which time the lighthouse was vandalized and the Fresnel lens smashed. For several years the light station sat unattended at the head of the cove, until some Asian investors came to the rescue. The historic lighthouse, less the light tower and fog signal building, is home to Glen Cove Marina’s office.
References
1. Umbrella Guide to California Lighthouses, Sharlene and Ted Nelson, 1993, p135-137
2. California Lighthouse Life in the 1920’s & 1930’s,Wayne C Wheeler, 2000. p68-69
3. The Keeper's Log, Fall 2001.
Links
Carquinez Strait Lighthouse
History of Carquinez
Glen Cove Marina
Content is copyright by Ocairdestudio 2009

Sugar Pine

Location West side of Lake Tahoe., Tahoma California United States
Directions: Sugar Pine Point State Park is located on the California side of Lake Tahoe. Take California Highway 89 (south from Interstate 80, north from US Highway 50). The park entrance is approximately one mile south of Tahoma. Trail maps are available at the park ranger station. The lighthouse site is located off the Edward F. Dolder Nature Trail. The trail loop is roughly one mile. The hike is considerably gentler than to Rubicon Point, but keep in mind that you are hiking at altitude.
Latitude: 39.04992
Longitude: -120.11504
Notes: This lighthouse was replaced by a solar-powered light on a pole.
Tower Height: 0
Description Tower: White, square, pyramidal wooden tower.
Operational: No/Maybe
Date Established: 1921
Current Use: Unknown.
Characteristic Range: Flashing white every 5 seconds, visible for 9 miles.
Height Focal Plane: 35
National Register: No
State: California
Country: United States
Date Deactivated: ?

Journal
This adventure was a return journey to the Truckee area. My last visit was the Rubicon lighthouse in DL Bliss. I ran short of time and I did not get to Sugar Pine. As a side note, my wife’s niece Ann had just relocated to a new house and I thought this would be a good time to pay her a visit. I set out early on Saturday morning; my mood was very placated as I headed north towards the Truckee/California region. The journey on the highways was not too exciting, the roads where not too busy and the weather on the mild side. I just listened to some random music from my iPod as I drove I planned my new adventure in the high country. What excitement lay before me I was not sure, but I was certainly looking forward to it. I wondered if I would see any wild animals.


Already the high trees, and the looming mountains where making their presence felt in my spirit. I pulled into a rest spot, had some water and took a few shots of the breath taking scenery. My mind rushed forward to my arrival in Truckee, I though I should call Ann when I arrive and let her know I am in the area. Also I contemplated with the idea of staying near Kings beach, as it was near to the location thunderbird lighthouse. As the thoughts flurried around in my head, I decided it would be best to let events play out. Once out of Sacramento region, the peace, beauty and tranquility of the high mountainous woods calmed my suburban mind. Once more I found myself on the road alone, this is not a problem, but it could be best shared this someone who had like interests. I realize that people are created differently and we do not have the same perspective on life. Many distractions bring us on a different path. Anyway on to my journey, the suburbia gave way to the grandeurs of nature. Hills soon turn into mountains and bushes into giant trees. The
freeway carried me deeper into rhapsody of color and fresh air.

It was approximately 1:00 pm when I arrived in Truckee, I was pulled over by the police, my registration sticker on the license plate was on the wrong bumper, I must change it. Had a nice lunch with Ann at Kings beach, Her husband Scott and daughter Nicole where busy doing other stuff, like house chores and soccer. I was only a short distance from the Thunderbird lighthouse, so I decided it was time to seek it out before the day ended.. Before leaving Kings Beach I took a few pictures of view and a few of people celebrating a wedding on the beach. Later on in the day, I was to encounter a few more weddings on the Lake Shore. It is a pretty and beautiful place to have a romantic wedding.



Getting to Thunderbird Lodge was not easy; it’s a number 5000 on highway 28, which my GPS did not take. I knew it was somewhere between Incline Village and the Junction of Hwy 50. I drove past until I reached Hwy 50, met another wedding group, photographer warned that turnoff was a little sign post about 2 miles back. Turned around missed it again, turned in to a State Park asked a trooper who said it was a mile from the park and take my time. This time I found only to discover that you call for a reservation tour and only between Mondays to Friday. I headed for Ann’s house; guess I knew where I was spending the night.
Early next morning made my way into Truckee, had a coffee and bagel. Watched the morning stragglers come for their wake up drop. Headed on down 69 towards Sugar Pine, I Told the park ranger what I was doing, he said park on the road and take the Dolder Nature Trail. Again my advice is this is a fairly strenuous trek especially if you not acclimatized to the high altitude. I missed my turnoff and wound up in another part of the park, Ehrman mansion, where I met this wonderful docent Betty Beck, she must have been 80 yrs of age, yet she bubbling over with excitement. To look at this lady, you would taken her to be frail and ready to keel over, but as I spoke to her I knew instinctively that she was tough old bird, I say that with tongue in cheek. She excitedly told me about a movie made at Rubicon, Nelson Eddy and Jeanette MacDonald’s movie New Moon and her Parents getting engaged 1928 at Rubicon Light. Her long bony finger reached towards the sky as she directed my gaze towards Ospreys nest lodged high in the trees, I missed that old lady as I headed in path she directed me towards Sugar Pine. I also discovered I could have driven to this part of the Park.


As I made way to the Sugar Pine Navigation, the trail became so peaceful and quiet. At times the views where breath taking. Along the way were the lone hiker and once a runner came between me and my thoughts. Finally I was there, at the beacon, and that’s all it was. It is an unmanned automated beacon. A couple on the beach who had trekked for the same reason I did. Get there picture of the beacon at sugar pine. They left and I hung around for about 45 mins before making my way back to my car. I had the sense that this adventure was now at its end. Just before I left the park, I sat on a bench overlooking the Lake Tahoe and thought how crazy the world had become. How peaceful this is, sadness came upon my spirit. I also started to think about the lighthouse keepers, they had to be special people. To spend lonely hours in these desolate and often god forsaken places, tending a light or bell. Just to be a guide and warning to troubled ship. The sailor would look or listen for the distant guide and by its characteristic sound or flash; it would safely guide him to his port of entry. Today, the world needs a beacon to guide it back to normality.



History
Sugar Pine Point is a forested peninsula on the west side of Lake Tahoe. According to the State Park brochure, it includes a 1¾ mile of Lake Frontage accompanied by several sandy beaches and a inimitable natural surroundings where the unscathed, ancient forest of Tahoe Basin slopes down to the water's on the sunny beaches. The Washoe Indians have lived in this scenic region for thousands of years, they spent their summers hunting and fishing here. Just south of General Creek we have a 19th century log cabin, and the elegant Ehrman Mansion.


1844 February, John C. Fremont, on expedition across the Sierra Nevada and into California, first sighted Lake Tahoe.


1860 spring, frontiers-man of "General" William Phipps (1813-1891). Staked a 160 acre homestead IN Sugar Pine Point. He was the first permanent resident, and soon afterwards he built a log cabin.
1860's Comstock boom and logging

1872, Phipps built a second cabin, which can be seen today near the shore just south of General Creek.

1888, Phipps sold his property to W. W. "Billy" Lapham, who proceed to establish a Summer resort, the Bellevue.

1889, Property taken over by the bank ,

1890, Property has new owners and managers.

1893, Bellevue, known to be an elegant family resort when the main hotel was destroyed by fire.
1897, Isaias. W. Hellman pioneer west-coast banker from San Francisco began purchasing about 1,000 acres of property at Sugar Pine Point for personal use.

1903, His grand summer home, Pine Lodge, was completed

1921, business in the area lobbied that the light at Rubicon Point be relocated to Sugar Pine Point - The lighthouse was a white wood pyramidal tower, on the outer end of Sugar Pine Point,the light had to retain on its present characteristic and without other change. Sugar Pine has been described as "the world's highest working lighthouse"

1927 Electricity was made available. Steam Generators produced power before that. Water was obtained from General Creek and later pumped directly from the Lake.


1935, the light was discontinued - only to be relit the following year at a cost of $590.52. Today, the point is marked by a modern optic. Post light with red and white diamond-shaped daybeacon. The navigational aid stands on the grounds of Sugar Pine Point State Park - where the park brochure describes it as "the world's highest working lighthouse." Note: this light is missing from the current U.S. Coast Guard Light List. Lake Tahoe is the only landlocked lake in the country with aids to navigation maintained by the Coast Guard. Site manager: Ed Z'berg - Sugar Pine Point State Park. ARLHS USA-916.


1965 the house and 1,975 acres of the estate were acquired by the California State Park System. Today the house is maintained as a house museum and as an example of the opulent tradition in Tahoe summer homes.

Reference

Ehrman Mansion Statepark
Links
Wikipedia

State Park

Content is copyright by Ocairdestudio 2009

Angel Island

Location: Angel Island State Park
Directions: Angel Island State Park is accessible by ferry from several locations around the San Francisco Bay. The island is also accessible by private boat. Segways, trams, bicycles are available on the Island


Point Knox 1886
Location: West side
Lens: Fixed 5th order red lens
Range: 6 Nautical miles
Fog Signal: 3000 lb fog bell supported by a wooden trestle
Fog signal characteristic; 2 blows every 15 seconds.
Structure: White Frame 30ft x 30ft single story keeper’s residence




Point Stuart 1915
Location: West side
Coordinates: N 37° 51.660’ W 122° 26.765’
Lens: 300 mm ei
Light characteristic: Iso W 20s.
Height: 80ft
Structure: White Frame 2 story keeper’s residence
Tower: Light mounted on rectangular building on hillside



Point Blunt 1915
Location: East side
Coordinates: N 37° 51.11.572’ W 122° 25.09.095’
Year first constructed:1915
Year first lit: 1956
Automated: 1976
Construction: Concrete
Original lens: order Fresnel lens,300 mm ei
Light Characteristic: Flashing Green 5 seconds
Height: 60ft
Range: 13 Nautical miles
Structure: White square house.
Emergency: (Flashing White 5seconds) light of lower intensity when main light is extinguished.
HORN: 1 blast every 15 seconds (2 second blast).
Admiralty number: G4119
ARLHS number:USA-617
USCG number:6-4335



Journal
This is a tale of 2 adventures. Struggling on how I was going to get a descent picture of Yerba Buena Lighthouse. I started to examine the routes of the ferry from Oakland to San Francisco. I saw from their schedule that the ferry went close to Treasure Island. Also I could use this to revisit Angel Island and get a picture of the Bell at Point Knox. I found that a Ferry was leaving Oakland Harbor at 9:00 am on Saturday and returning around 3:30pm. I had my plan and prepared myself for the adventure.

Saturday, came I drove to Jack London Square and parked in the parking quite close to the Ferry, bring your parking ticket with as you can get it validated. The weather was sunny, the skies a nice blue. I boarded the Ferry, onboard lined up to pay my fare $14 with parking validation, not bad, its $16 from San Francisco and you have to pay parking.


I set myself on the top deck, made sure I had a good spot facing Treasure Island. My 40d and 5D where loaded with 24-105mm and 100-200mm lens. The ferry came real close to Treasure Island and this gave ample time to snap off enough pictures that I could later edit. It was also good that my perspective kept changing as the ferry went by. Both cameras where busy clicking.

The next part of the ride I was not prepared for, as a surprise the ferry brought me real close to Alcatraz. This gave some good views of the Alcatraz lighthouse placed in its environment. I got to view the island from the East looking towards the west as the Ferry turned for San Francisco. When we docked in the San Francisco Harbor we had to change Ferries. The second Ferry brought me on the opposite side of Alcatraz Island, so now I could shoot West looking East. After we passed Alcatraz, I remained on the top deck; it was a lovely day with some wonderful views of the bay. I thought someday, I may not be able to do this, so while I am able, I am determined to continue my journey towards the light.

Once on the Island, I immediately made my way to a Park Ranger to find how I could get to the Immigration Station, I was directed to a café where I purchased a tram ride and tour ticket to the immigration station. It was a short ride to my destination, before we entered the station we had a brief history on the Asian immigrants who came through Angel Island. The Island has a rich history which I am not going fully into in this blog. Visiting the Island and listening to the story told by the docents can richly build your arsenal of Americas History in the Bay.


The group toured the station, it was quite moving, to see how these people lived in such cramped quarters, survived, and retained their dignity and self esteem. Scratched into the walls is their hopes and fears of getting into the country they dreamed of. The land of opportunity could be seen a short distance away, it was so close and so far away and each day on the island was an eternity with fading hope. Much of what I was looking at made me ponder about the immigration issue we face today, not easy problems to solve yet the right thing must be done, and I am not sure what that is.



I decided to walk back to the main area of the Island, Ayala cove. The high elevation of the hills gave me an opportunity to take lots of pictures of the Bay especially those of Tiburon, most will never be seen by anyone, unless I can find a way to publish separately from this blog. When I got back to the cove, I sat down and had a beer and a hamburger, listened to a young lady as she sang in the open air. I watched as the island traffickers made like busy ants going too and fro. I watched boats with their billowing sails set out from the harbor to the open blue waters of the bay. Soon I was aboard the ferry for Oakland, making its way around the opposite side of Angel Island, which brought me back to Yerba Buena for more opportunities to shoot Yerba Buena lighthouse. The Ferry stopped at Alameda and continued into Oakland harbor, I got a nice shot of the Oakland Relief ship.


2 weeks later I was again to make this trip with my brother in-law Pat Ryan. He was on vacation from Ireland with his wife, my sister Majella. He also is an avid photographer, so I thought this would be a good trip for him. I remembered there is an excellent shot of the Golden Gate Bridge as it sits under the Bay Bridge, so I set Pat up for the shot. I was also more aware of my locations and what to expect, I knew of Point Blunt, Point Knox and Point Stuart on Angel Island. I also was aware of Fort Point and Point Lime near the Golden Gate Bridge, not too sure if I could get a good enough vantage point for their shot, at least I was aware.


As the Ferry was leaving San Francisco, I was into positioning myself that I paid no attention to who was on board. From a distance I heard people laughing, I looked up to see what was going on. It was my Brother Eddie and his family, also his son Graham was visiting with his fiancée Katrina. We continued to enjoy the fact that we accidentally met, but quickly I got back to business, Photographed Fort Point & Point Lime, next time I will bring a longer Lens 400mm with an extender. This opportunity allowed me to focus on the Bell, Point Stewart and Point Blunt.

On the Island we walked to the Immigration Station, after 1st visiting the museum, where there is a brief history of the lighthouses and Fresnel lens on Display. The day was hot and I made the cardinal mistake of not bringing water. Once you leave the cove there are no more places to get supplies, until you get back. Met a few people along the way, many where making the treks pushing children in their wheelers. You need to be in fairly good shape to make the walk up the hill without using the tram. On this leg of the journey, I stayed with my wide angle lens. I walked all the ways to immigration station and back to the cove. My leg was killing me, the pain was quite intense, and I think it was due to the short cut back. Coming down a steep incline I kept pounding my leg into the ground and my knee could not absorb the constant shocks of the foot hitting the ground.

When we got back to Ayala cove, we found shelter from the elements under a shade from an umbrella. Pat ordered some beers and burgers. We reviewed what we shot, took a few more harbor pictures and prepared to board the ferry. The ferry was about to leave when a lady asked are we going to San Francisco, I said no we are going to Oakland, panicky she gathered her group and hurriedly exited the ferry. Again on deck, we met several people interested in photography, also their interest piqued when I said I photograph lighthouses, one young man paid a lot of attention. Several times I dropped my lens cover and he retrieved it for me. The Ferry was moving quite fast and as we sped by Treasure Island the spray came over the edge of the boat, Pat was worried that I would ruin my camera and lens. Everything was fine and we made our way back into the Alameda and finally into Oakland. For the cost of $14 which includes parking, it’s a better value than any cruise on the Bay.

So that concludes my tail of 2 trips. Now for a little history, my history comes from many sources, I have several books; I pick up the pamphlet, the docents and finally Lighthouse research on the web. I try to arrange things chronologically and make sure I have hit the high points. If you think I have misquoted or not given the correct reference please email me with the correction.

History
Its hard to separate what went on in the Island and try and keep the lighthouses separate. the island is so small and the lives of the people are integrated with each other.

1773, Lt. Juan Manuel de Ayala charged by the Spanish government to chart the California coast. The ship SAN CARLOS is the 1st ship to enter San Francisco Bay and Ayala is its commander, the ship anchors off Angel Island. He calls Isla de los Angels, later renamed to its English form Angel Island. Here he is met by the Miwok Indians, the original dwellers of the island.

1839, Governor of California granted Angel Island to Don Antonio Maria Osio, as a cattle ranch, he raises a herd of approximately 500 cattle.

1850, The U.S. Government reserves the right to Angel Island.
1854, 2 gentlemen from San Francisco fight a duel on Angel Island, both suffer wounds, later one of the duelers would die from his wounds.

1860, Supreme Court voids Antonio Maria Osio's claim to Angel Island the US Army takes ownership of the island.

1863, Military troops set up bases on Angel Island as part of the coastal defenses of San Francisco Bay. Work begins on Camp Reynolds (later called West Garrison on Angel Island).
1864, An Army hospital is opened at the cove on Angel Island. Gun batteries are constructed at Point Stuart and Point Knox.
1865, The 12th Infantry, headquartered on Angel Island, has men serving on eleven different posts from Mexico to Alaska.

1885, $4,500 was made available for placing a fog bell at Point Knox on Angel Island. Angel Island is the largest Island in the Bay. Due to the heavy fog that swamps the bay and increase of ship traffic, several hundred where entering the bay, Point Knox was selected. It assisted ships to navigate safely the channel that led in and out of Sausalito harbor.

1886, a 3000 lb fog bell was installed along with a 30ft x 30ft one story keepers residence at Point Knox on the west side of the Island. The Bell hung a fog signal building and was supported by a wooden trestle. It sat precariously perched on the cliff. Access to the Bell was down a 151 wooden stairs down a very steep incline of a cliff. The Bell was struck by a sledge hammer, powered by a mechanical striking mechanism, wound by keeper every couple of hours. The bell was difficult to maintain, it often broke down. Difficult to wind, some keepers considered it a dog. Gun batteries are built on Angel Island facing the golden Gate.

1887 Nov 1, on the west end of the point the fog station commenced operation. . 1st Keeper was John Ross, from the tender Shubrick. He served faithfully for 16yrs. along with his wife and 2 children

1888, A quarantine station is established in Hospital Cove.

1900, a 5th order red lens was added. It was displayed at night and pulled back into the bell house by pulley during the day; this was to protect its prisms from the rays of the sun.

1902, Juliet Fish Nichols a widow became light keeper of point Knox, during which time her stepmother Emily Fish was serving as a light keeper further south in Point Pinos. Juliet husband died during the Spanish American war, Henry was inspector of 12th district lighthouses. Juliet served for 12 yrs. Both she and her step mother retired in 1914


1906 July 2nd, Dense fog rolled in, the bells mechanism stopped working,seeing the masts of ships rise above the fog. Juliet using a hammer struck the bell continuously until the fog lifted.

1906 July 3rd, 10:00 am Mr. Burt came to repair the Bell

1906 July 4th, the bell was again malfunctioning. At 8:00pm the tension bar broke in half, a dense fog rolled in with a heavy mist, Juliet Nichols went through the night striking the bell with a hammer until 4:00 pm the next day. She struck 2 blows every 15 seconds maintaining the bells signal characteristic. She struck the Bell for 20Hrs and 35 minutes according to her keepers log. She received a letter of commendation for her actions.

1910, Ellis Island type of immigration center was setup on the east of the island, thousands of immigrants from Asia where processed through this center, today it is an immigration museum. Poems etched into the walls woodwork immortalize their plight.

1915, Point Stuart, just west of Point Knox received a small lighthouse. It was built on a hillside; a 2nd keeper was assigned to this light. He resided with other keeper at Point Knox. The residence was upgraded to 2 stories.


1939, the light keeper's residence is raised and a 2nd story added at point blunt.

1940, Fire burns down the Administration building, immigration process moved to San Francisco

1940’s, Fort McDowell, was the largest military staging facility on the west coast. Over 300,000 soldiers moved through Angel Island on their way to the pacific front during World War II. Fort McDowell was also a discharge center for soldiers returning from war.

1954, a Nike Missile site was based on the southeast corner of the island.

1960, 3rd light installed, a new watch room was constructed at Point Blunt by the coast guard, which gave a full view San Francisco Bay. Point knox was abandoned


1961 With the new watch room, and new quarters at Point Blunt, the Coast Guard moved the personnel from Angel Island Light Station and at the same time discontinued manning of Southampton Shoals Light Station. In addition to Southampton Shoals, personnel at Point Blunt operate their own light and fog signals and Raccoon Strait light and fog signals. The station also provides special direction finder calibration services as requested. Four family units, 3 bedrooms each, are at Point Blunt. Two units are Coast Guard owned, two are leased from the State of California. One unit is occupied by the Officer in Charge and his family. The other units are presently being utilized by the married crew members and their families. One small boat is assigned to the station. A pickup truck is assigned. Point Blunt Light Station rates a BM1 as Officer in Charge, plus one EN2, one FN, and one SN. (Written in July, 1970)

1963, Point Knox ,the bell house was razed, leaving a lonely bell dangling from a wooden platform. Maybe a fitting tribute

1976, Point Blunt is automated, the lantern is removed and building demolished. The green light of the automated lantern can be seen from the watch building

2009 The fog bell is still visible at Point Knox, not accessible. The bell is can be seen from Camp Reynolds. Point Blunt is not accessible, but visible from the ferries passing the island, and can be seen from the main trail on the island. Point Stuart can be seen from ferries passing or going to the Island. The island also has a rich history as a home of the native Coastal Miwok, a US military base, and an immigration station. The Visitor's Center at Ayala Cove has exhibits on the island's lighthouse history as well as the lens from Southampton Shoal. For more information, contact the Angel Island Association at (415) 435-3522




Reference
• Point Knox, George Worthylake, The Keeper's Log, Fall 1996.
• Umbrella Guide to California Lighthouses, Sharlene and Ted Nelson, 1993.
• Guardians of the Golden Gate, Ralph Shanks, 1990.
• Women Who Kept the Lights, Clifford

Links
Juliet Fish
Finicky Fog Bells
Angel Island
Angel Island Ferry from Oakland
US Coast Guard
Content is copyright by Ocairdestudio 2009

Point Arena Lighthouse

Location: 45500 Lighthouse Road, its about 4 miles north of Point Arena, Mendocino County, California, and 135 miles north of San Francisco, and 31 miles west of Hopland
Directions: From CA-1, head west on LIGHTHOUSE RD. Drive to the end of the road. Its about 2.6 miles from CA-1 turnoff, it is about 5 miles from Point Arena town heading north.

Coordinates WGS-84: (GPS) 38°57′17″N 123°44′26″W38.95472°N 123.74056°W
Year first constructed: 1870
Year first lit: 1908 (current tower)
Automated: 1977
Foundation: Concrete
Construction: Reinforced Concrete
Tower shape: Cylindrical
Markings/Pattern: Currently not painted
Height: 115 feet, 155 feet above sea level
Original lens: First order rotating Fresnel lens mercury floated
Current lens: DCB-224
Range: 25 nmi
Characteristic: Flashing white 15 s. Emergency light of reduced intensity when main light is extinguished.
The Point Arena Light is California Historical Landmark No: 1035.[1]
Admiralty number: G4358
ARLHS number: USA-611
USCG number: 6-0420

It was about 10:00 am When I arrived at Eddies house in San Bruno. The sun was already high in the sky. We quickly packed our supplies for the day into back of my SUV, Eddie’s daughters Catherine, Jamie and Jennifer where excited and brimming over with energy. Next was a quick stop at Starbucks a fill of coffee and we where on our way.

One indication that you are out of the main suburbs of the city is the local cafes of the small towns, the sense of false sophistication and is replaced by good solid humor and personal relationship. One of our first stops was near Petaluma, where we had lunch at a roadside cafe. The café had a rural & bikers feeling to it. We sat outside, under the canopy, sheltered from the warm sun. Our waitress, dressed in a blue checkered blouse, short blue denim shorts, long high heel shoes and her hair rolled up, finished red ruby lipstick, and covered in tattoos, her jovial humor was welcomed as she sported her big ring and tattooed arm. She took our order, helped the children to choose what to eat from the menu and gestured a knockout blow to my brother Eddie as he joked with her. After lunch, it was a few pictures of the neighborhood and on our way to Point Arena.


Soon, we where in wide open countryside, luscious fields and lots of black and white Holstein cows grazing on the green clover laden fields. These are Californian cows, happy cows. Our view was filled with lovely blue sky, birds and butterflies. As we drove further and deeper into the countryside our remembrance of the city started to fade from memory and nature became our reality, we made a few stops along the way to take in and observe the breathtaking views. We definitely had hit the heartland of Dairy Farms in Marin, I was expecting at some bend to meet a group of Moosicians with their accordions, trumpets and drums.

This was to be a long journey which brought us past Bodega Bay and up the coast road towards Fort Bragg and Mendocino County. At times the road narrowed into one lane and reminded me of the roads in Ireland. A few unusual sights we saw on our way. Cows standing on the sides of cliffs as if they where goats, rising above the clouds and seeing them as if you where in an aircraft, and a monument of American flags, and a immaculate Ford T sitting on the edge of a cliff with no-one in sight. Sometimes I kick myself because I don’t stop and take these pictures. And lots of small towns begging me to get out and take some pictures. The sad thing about my blog is I only post 10 to 14 pictures and if the lighthouse is really interesting then the pictures are all about the lighthouse. I am still thinking about a back roads blog.


It was late in the afternoon when we arrived at Point Arena; we had maybe 30-45 minutes before lighthouse station closed. It’s open between 10am - 3:30 pm each day. I was impressed at viewing this tall erect round tower as it rose into the blustery sky. I could feel its impact it had on the mariners of its day as it protected them from the treacherous waters. It was cold, windy and foggy, the wind cut right through my clothing, as I hurriedly put on my wind breaker. We made our way to fog house building at the light station, where we where greeted by a very friendly black lady in her mid years and her young assistant who was working for the summer while she was off school. There is a very well stocked gift shop in the converted Fog signal building, this is the building from 1896, so we picked up a few ornaments; the proceeds go to the preservation of the lighthouse.


On Display is an enormous 1st order Fresnel lens. Its in beautiful condition, a continuous video is playing on lighthouses, and you are surrounded by visual history of the Arena lighthouse. What is a shame, the Lens had to be removed from the lantern room of the lighthouse because some brain dead woman scratched her initials on one of the prisms, she ruined it for everyone. The Fog signal building is a light station museum and gift shop, lots of photos and artifacts from the past. Eddies Children and I made our way to the top of Lighthouse tower, Eddie was not willing to climb the stairs because of his injured back. The climb to the top is very steep. When I arrived at top I was out of breath, partly due to dragging all my camera equipment and my bum knee. The view from the top was worth it. The Tower is a great observation point to view the coast and the surrounding countryside. I Looked through the telescope and observed some seals on the rocks below. Apparently they are two types here at Point Arena I am not sure what types of seals they are, I will have to find out at a later stage. Went outside on the tower balcony and felt the force of the blustery wind, secured my hat and cameras to my body, certainly my cheeks where going to have a full glow after this.


Inside the tower, they are many opportunities to photograph, the spiraling stairs from the original tower, the lantern room, and the corridor between the walls. After we slowly made our way to the bottom of the tower, we captured a few family pictures to add to our collection. In the dull grey weather with high cold winds, there was a wedding party taking pictures of the bride and groom at the lighthouse. I snapped a few of the wedding party; especially the white stretch limo juxtaposed to the round tower of the lighthouse. We where the last to leave the light station, and we made our way into point Arena town. I find it exhilarating just to watch young people amuse themselves by turning a small town into a plaything. Catherine and Jennifer had fun with the old cinema and the quaintness of town Mural. We spent a small amount of time strolling about an empty town before heading back towards Bodega Bay, where we decided to dine.


As we travelled on our return journey, we stopped at a monument of American flags.It was quite strange, here in the middle of no where a massive fallen tree was decorated with numerous American flags, also it was protected by a light sensor. We spent some time scrambling around the woods in the area. Again Eddie’s children made free with their environment. I must say they are a pleasure to be around, and are respectful to our natural resources. As we continued our journey, we where amazed at the cows standing on the side of steep hills as if they where mountain goats, and the green model T on edge of a cliff. At times it felt as if I was in a surreal world, on mountains above the clouds, cows on the edge of the world and green model T in space, usually after such an experience I kick myself in the pants for not spending more time taking pictures.

Eventually we arrived in Bodega Bay, we had a quick bite to eat, clam chowder, spent a little time perusing the store, wandered to the deck. We had a wonderful sunset, and a great view of the bay, spent a few moments just drinking in the beauty, when we capped it off with Jamie getting some pictures with a Seal in the background. Dusk fell and it was just a long drive home. Darkness has its own way of bringing an adventure to its close, and preparing for the next lighthouse.





History
1543, Spaniard Bartolomé Ferrelo was the first European to name Point Arena, he called it Cabo de Fortunas (“cape of fortunes"). The point is a narrow sandbar peninsula jutting 1/2 mil into the Pacific Ocean. This sandbar creates a natural hazard to seafaring vessels due to its currents and reefs.
1775, lieutenant Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra (commander of the schooner Sonora) renamed the cape to Punta Delgado (narrow point) ,he was part of a royal expedition chartered by the government of Mexico to chart the north coast of Alta California. Later known as Punta Barro de Arena (Sandbar Point)
1850s and 1860s, The Gold rush caused an increase in ship traffic carrying redwood lumber, goods to and from Northern California to San Francisco; this showed the need for a navigation aid at this dangerous point.
1865 November, 10 ships sank in stormy seas just off Point Arena.
1866, The US Government surveyed Point Arena to construct a lighthouse station.
1867. Supplies for the lighthouse station were transported to the Arena Cove and hauled by mule 4 miles overland to the lighthouse site. Local rock was deemed inadequate for the lighthouse, so a local company was contracted to produce bricks on-site. 3 kilns were built, and more than 500,000 bricks supplied.
1869, Lighthouse construction began on what is Now known as Point Arena (sand point), which is part of the Emerald Triangle. The 100 ft brick-and-mortar (masonry) tower included ornate iron balcony supports and a large 2 ½ story Keeper’s residence at its base with enough space to house 4 families, another 114,000 bricks from San Francisco where used to construct the outside of the tower. 1st order fixed; Fresnel lens was installed in the lantern room. There was little quite or privacy with 4 families under one roof. A log entry from 1880 records "Threatening weather and fighting children."

1870, Point Arena was the 1st of 3 tall coastal beacons on the west coast of California, Pigeon Point and Piedras Blancas where the other 2. On May 1st its beacon lit the skies of Mendocino Coast and joined the other sentinels on California’s coast, in sending its warning signals to mariners of the dangerous reefs embedded on in the Pacific Ocean just off its narrow point. The original oil lamp could be seen up to 18 miles away.
1871 A fog signal building consisting of 2 12-inch steam whistles began operation and its boilers consumed about 100 tons of wood in a foggy year, The whistles made a 5 second blast every 25 seconds..
1880's. the point was connected to the local country road (now Highway 1) by means of a government right of way.
1880 June 7, The light keepers log recorded an earthquake shook the Tower , the quake was on the San Andreas fault lying just offshore from the point.

1883, the Lighthouse Board said in its Annual Report the light station was "located on a projecting point, the outer face of which is on an almost perpendicular bluff, made peculiarly dangerous by the liability of sudden caving near the edge of the earth overlying the sand-rock. One of the laborers fell over this bluff and was drowned. A picket-fence 1,400 ft long was built around the structures to prevent further accident."
1888, the light keepers log recorded, Earthquake shook the lighthouse tower
1896 The wearing down of the fog signal building due to its environment had to be replaced by a new construction; its whistle distinctiveness was retained. This fog signal building is now the current Museum which houses the 1st order Fresnel lens.
1898, The light keepers log recorded, Earthquake shook the lighthouse tower
1906, April 18th, a devastating earthquake struck the Light Station. The Lighthouse and the Light keeper’s quarters were damaged beyond repair that they had to be demolished. Only the fog signal building managed to survive the quake. Much of the material from the demolished light station was used for the rebuilding of the new light station. The Light keeper recorded the quake. “A heavy blow struck the tower from the south. The blow came quick and heavy, accompanied by a heavy report. The tower quivered for a few seconds, went far over to the north, came back, and then swung north again, repeating this several times. Immediately after came rapid and violent vibrations, rending the tower apart, the sections grinding and grating upon each other; while the lenses, reflectors, etc., in the lantern were shaken from their settings and fell in a shower upon the iron floor.” The docent on duty said the tower swayed 4 ft in either direction before the lens came crashing down on the turret above.
When workers arrived, temporary housing was built for the keepers and the construction workers. A 30-foot wooden light tower with the lantern room from the original tower was built next to the lighthouse, and a 2nd order lens installed.

1907 January 5th, the temporary began operation.
Cognizant of what havoc earthquakes can wreck on buildings made of brick, the United States Lighthouse Service sought a quake-proof building, they contracted with San Francisco's Concrete Chimney Corporation - to rebuild the lighthouse on the site, their specialty was building Industrial chimneys, which accounts for the unique design for the new Point Arena Lighthouse; featuring steel reinforcement rods encased in concrete. This was the first lighthouse built this way.
On the site of the original tower, the new 115-ft tower was built, It was made of reinforced concrete - an innovation at the time. Iron bars were woven together, surrounded by wooden frames, and then covered by concrete to create the tower. As the tower grew, so did the wooden scaffolding encircling it. Contained in the scaffolding was a mule-powered elevator used to raise the numerous wheelbarrows of concrete to be poured into the forms. After the tower was completed, a doughnut-shaped buttress was built around the base of the tower to give it additional support and create a circular workroom.

The staircase from the original lighthouse survived intact, and was reassembled in the new tower. The tower was supported by a massive base to provide further support and featured a 1st Order Fresnel Lens, over six feet in diameter and weighing more than six tons. Four single family homes were built in row to replace the light keeper's dwelling. The extra space was to provide more privacy to the families of the keeper and his assistants
1908 September 15th 6:00 pm, the beacons of light from a new 1st order Fresnel lens manufactured by Barbier, Benard & Turenne in France, beamed out to sea from its new 115ft tower. The lens was made up of 666 hand-ground glass prisms all focused toward 3 sets of double bull’s-eyes. It was these bull’s-eyes that gave the Point Arena Lighthouse its unique "light signature" of double flashes every six seconds as it rotated atop 3 gallons of mercury. The lens was set in solid brass framework , the wickies had to hand crank a 160 lb clockwork weight suspended in the center shaft of the tower up every 75 mins,the lens was rotated by this action of the clockwork mechanism, caused the rotation to revolve every 18 second. Light was produced by a "Funks" hydraulic oil lamp, that needed to be refueled every 4 hours, and whose wicks would have to be trimmed regularly, it was visible for 20 miles
This incredible optic, that held an appraised value of over $3.5 million,
Prior to the introduction of electricity,.. Later, two 1,000 watt electric lamps were installed to replace the oil lamp, and a 1/8 horsepower electric motor was installed to replace the clockworks.
1937-52 Light Keeper Bill Owens served at Point Arena for 15 years during which time control of lighthouses passed from he Lighthouse Board to the Coast Guard
Owens found the lintel from the doorway of the original tower in the surf, which is now near the tower,

1939. The daymark of the tower was slightly changed as part of this transition, the gallery around the lantern room was formerly painted black, but the Coast Guard decided to paint the entire cement portion of the tower white.
During the war, guardsmen were assigned to patrol the area. Light Keepers where required to report any sightings of enemy ships or submarines. During one of Keeper William Owens watches, he spotted a submarine near the point. When he reported it he was told no enemy submarines where in the area. A lumber schooner Ameilia was sunk near Fort Bragg the next day. Later the US Navy confirmed a enemy sub off the California Coast.
1960, The light keepers' dwellings were demolished and new quarters built. 4 coastguardsmen and their families manned the light station and they occupied the: a 4 bedroom, and 3 x 3-bedroom residences. Other buildings at the time include a paint locker, fuel locker, bosun locker, fire pump, water pumps and JP-5 fueling pumps. A ½-ton truck was used to bring the children to school in the nearby town.
1976, the fog signal was discontinued,

1977 June, An aero beacon was installed outside the tower, and the light was automated. 1st Order Fresnel Lens was discontinued, but remained in the tower. At the time, the lens was the only Mercury-floated light still in existence in the Twelfth United States Coast Guard District..
The 400 pound aircraft beacon had been replaced by a 40 pound modern rotating light that incorporates the Fresnel principles for the efficient projection of light.
There is a battery-powered emergency system installed as a back-up in the event of a power failure. In addition, a radio beacon, with a 50-mile signal that originates from the station, also assists mariners. the current modern rotating light can be seen for 16 miles
The station was closed to the public
1978, the original fog signal at the station was silenced, and a bell buoy was placed nearby.
1982, Point Arena Lighthouse Keeper's, Inc. received permission to conduct tours of the station..
1984, a nonprofit group called the Point Arena Lighthouse Keepers received the light station as part of a 25 year land lease to mange the light station from the Coast Guard and the Department of Transportation.
1992, the film "Forever Young" was filmed at Point Arena. The film stars Mel Gibson, Jamie Lee Curtis and George Wendt. A shell of a Victorian mansion and a gazebo were built on the grounds north of the lighthouse. After eight days of filming, the crews dismantled the Victorian and left as quickly as they arrived. Today, only the gazebo stands along the northern cliffs of Point Arena.
2000 November, the nonprofit group was given ownership of the light station due to their historic preservation and educational efforts. A lot of the group’s income came from lighthouse visitation, museum store sales, lighthouse memberships and rental of the light keeper's homes. This income is used for ongoing preservation of the tower, facilities, and educational endeavors.

2004, the mercury (used to float the Fresnel lens) was finally removed. Over three gallons of mercury was removed. The mercury was no longer needed, and represented a health hazard.
2005, Fresnel lens stabilization work began as the white letharge (special Fresnel lens putty for holding the prisms) was deteriorating.
2006, the lighthouse was the subject of another film - this time a documentary. The independent film includes a description of Fresnel lenses, a history of the light, and an interview with the Owens sisters - daughters of Keeper William Owens.
Point Arena Lighthouse Keepers was awarded $200,000 from The State of California to help with their restoration efforts.
2008, $1.6 million was spent to renovate the public restrooms, fog signal building, and the tower, whose concrete had begun to crumble, the lantern room received a new copper roof and the 1st order Fresnel lens was moved, along with its pedestal and clockwork drive mechanism, to the fog signal building (museum). Jim Woodward a Fresnel lens expert was brought in to oversee the move.
2009 February, the tower was once again opened to the public; it is unpainted. The lantern room has been fitted with a metal floor, and makes for a great observation room with 360 degree view of the area.
Restoration work at the station is ongoing - much of the work done by volunteers and renovation funds greatly appreciated.

Much of the history came from many sources and I am not sure if I have referenced all.

References
• Point Arena, Gregory W. Coan, The Keeper's Log, Spring 1993.
• Lighthouses of the Pacific, Jim Gibbs, 1986.
• Annual Report of the Light House Board, various years.
• Umbrella Guide to California Lighthouses, Nelson pp. 143-145
• California Lighthouses, Roberts and Jones pp. 22-23
• The Keeper's Log Winter 2005, Fall 2005, Winter 2006, Summer 2006
• Lighthouse Digest, August 2005, August 2006

Links
• US Coast Guard Historical Light Station information & photographs
• Point Arena Lighthouse
• National Park Service Point Arena

Content is copyright by Ocairdestudio 2009