Farallon Island Lighthouse

Location: Farallon Island, California Located on the highest point of the island about 25 miles (40 km) west of the Golden Gate.

Directions: The island is closed to the public as a bird sanctuary, but the lighthouse can be seen from Oceanic Society half-day cruises to observe wildlife in the area. Site and tower closed.).

Coordinates:  37°41′57″N 123°00′07″W37.69915°N 123.00184°WCoordinates: 37°41′57″N 123°00′07″W37.69915°N 123.00184°W
Year first lit: 1855
Active: Yes
Automated: 1972
Keepers Dwelling: 3 brick.The original keeper's house was demolished in 1969;

Other Buildings: Two 1876 keeper's houses (Victorian wood duplexes), two cisterns, oil house, handcart railway

Foundation: Brick
Construction: Brick
Tower shape: white Conical
Height: 41 ft (12.5 m)
Focal plane: 358 ft (109 m);
Original lens: First order Fresnel lens, lantern removed; on display at the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park Museum on Fisherman's Wharf
Current lens: Vega VRB aerobeacon.
Fog Signal: Wave-activated fog whistle developed by Major Hartman Bache -- a steam engine whistle mounted over a natural blowhole (1859-1871).
Characteristic: Flashing white once every 15s
Admiralty number: G4014
ARLHS number: USA-281
USCG number: 6-0355
Owner: U.S. Coast Guard.
Site manager: U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (Farallon National Wildlife Refuge)

Journal:

The 3^rd time was a charm; accompanying me on this trip were my son and daughter Mark and Lydia. Once again an early rise and our eventful drive to an expensive parking lot near Pier 39. When I departed from my home, I left with the impression I had plenty of time to spare, before catching our boat; But when I arrived in San Francisco, the bay to breakers race was taking place. This was not appropriate; I had to find an alternative route to get to Pier 39, the police had set up barriers and blocked my route to pier 39. I was blessed that Mark and Lydia where with me as they know the city pretty well. We snaked our way through the city streets until we got to the Embarcadero. From there it was easy to continue our journey uninterrupted. We had just witnessed that at this early hour people will and continue to make themselves objects of ridicule and think it’s cool. I suppose it’s the undirected energy of youth.

I watched as they pushed their makeshift creations, my eardrums where bombarded by wild unintelligible yells as the revelers trundled down the streets, and could comprehend the departure of intelligence as they mindlessly made spectacles of themselves, looking for their 5 minutes of TV. I was once just as crazy, and sometimes regret the things I done as a young person, if only I could redirected that energy for a more creative purpose, who knows, time to move on. It was early morning and their was a chill in the air, we where cutting it a bit close, Lydia got out and headed for the Hard rock café, Mark & I , parked the SUV and retrieved our packs. We arrived as the group was preparing to leave. I took my precursory shots leaving the bay and hoped this would be the day that we made it to the Island. I had plenty of motion sickness aids with me.

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This time we had a new guide, a little stricter on the dos & don’ts of the trip. At the same time she divulged more information about the sea life that we where visiting. The waters where calm as we proceeded out under the Golden Gate bridge and the passengers where not appearing to be sea sick. We stopped in the cove near Point Diablo to look the Sea Lions & Elephant seals that still congregated their as a colony. From Point Diablo it was a straight run to the Islands, on the way a young man called Zachery adopted me. He was a very pleasant and intelligent young man. He shared his exploits of where he had been and his excitement at sharing this trip with his class mates. I think he was about 10 years old.

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It was an uneventful journey grey skies and grey water; looking back I could see the rapid retreat of the coastline. Finally I was on the part of the journey where there was no return. I sat inside the cabin, enjoyed some coffee and sandwiches, and my conversation with the young man and his mother. Apparently she was a military mom stationed near Sacramento. It’s this part of a trip do you find out who you travelling with. I looked out the cabin door to see Mark and Lydia wrapped up in blankets trying to keep warm and dry.

The first view of the island was that of a forlorn place; An Island of a small series of craggy rocks; and very isolated and hostile to human habitation. It definitely had the appearance of civilization returning to the wild. I watched with expectation as neared the Island, what would we find. Most people had come to view whales, my journey was for the remnants of the light that once guarded and protected the boats that entered the bay of San Francisco. Soon I was to see the buildings that still exist on the Island. I knew I was not going to get on the Island as it is a protected habitat for the Birds and marine life that live out here

I felt alive, my being was energized and the juices where flowing. I drank in my surroundings and did not worry about the grayness of my environment, I was surrounded by nature. Everyone had gathered at the front of the boat. I moved to the back. I wanted freedom to move around and take my shots. Later on I found out that many of the people could not take good pictures due to many reasons. I also learnt a lot about photography and water, it was another skill level to be mastered. To be brief, Landscape is not the same as waterscape. I got some Californian Sea Lions, Murre Birds, and Whales & Tufted Puffin: They where the most colorful birds. They nest in the crevices of the islands Around 50 pairs nest on the Farallones, which are the southernmost extent of their range. This deserves a return trip, probably in the fall.

Then there was the return journey, it did not take as long as going out. Quickly our catamaran skips over the choppy waves and made its way to the shores of the San Francisco Bay. Mile rock was propped on the Horizon and Fort Point sat majestically under the bridge. As we entered the bay, we arrived in the midst of a sail boat race and provided some beautiful images. The Golden Gate Bridge, sitting under a magnificent blue sky and to the south the City of San Francisco displayed its distinguishing pyramid building proudly erect on the skyline. The bay was filled with hundreds of sailboats, many flying colorful spinnakers. It’s a pity most of these shots will never see daylight. I said goodbye to my little friend Zachery and promised him some pictures. And I then headed off for something to eat on the wharf. To finish on a sour note, Lydia noticed that we where charged 3.5% of the bill for San Francisco’s health care. I am now boycotting the San Francisco restaurants. On top of that I had to stomach the high price of parking, I did not leave my heart in San Francisco, and it was gouged

History

1565:  the Farallones where geographical markers for Spanish Ships that searched the world for treasures. They began trade with the Philippines; the islands became lifesaving navigational markers for their return journey
1579:: It is believed that the Sir Francis Drake's Golden Hinde, anchored on the Farallones, to replenish their food supply with fresh meat. He named them “Islands of Saint James.

1603: Friar on a Spanish explorer Sebastian Vizcaino expedition wrote 6 leagues before reaching Point Reyes is a large island, 2 leagues from land & 3 leagues northwest of this are 7 Farallones ("rocks out of the sea") close together. Vizcaino drew the first maps of the Island.

1812: Bostonian Fur trade; a group passed near Point Reyes and the Farallones. They found the islands contained an abundance of fur seals and sea lions.  In a short period of time more than 200,000 fur seals were slaughtered. The war ended the Bostonian Fur trade but the Russians continued hunting. For the next 30 years hunters would habitat on the islands, hunting the seals for their pelts. When the populations of fur seals where depleted from over-hunting, the hunters departed. By the mid-1800s the sounds of fur seals, elephant seals and sea lions was gone

1848: California cedes to the US in the Guadalupe-Hidalgo treaty. The port of San Francisco had increased traffic due to the Gold Rush.

1852: The gold rush brought a huge incursion of people into California. Ships filled with immigrants teamed into the bay. As they passed the Farallones many encountered rough waters and shipwrecks became commonplace. The U.S. Lighthouse Service decided to construct a lighthouse for ships entering the bay. The southeast peak of the island was the chosen site. Clippers like the Golden City which sailed from New York in 1852 reported that she was detained 5 days off the Farallones in fog. The growth of San Francisco population saw the need for eggs. The chickens could not lay them fast enough, so the eggs from the murre Birds on the Farallones which where in plenty, where harvested by a Pacific Egg Company.


1855 Dec: The lighthouse shines its beacon on the west coast for the 1^st time. It is considered to be one of the highest lights in California. The Farallon Island Lighthouse was built on highest peak of the southeast Farallon. When construction of the tower was complete, it was too small to house a 1^st order Fresnel lens, the tower had to be razed and rebuilt. Quarry Stone for the building of the lighthouse was taken from the island. Construction workers faced many obstacles on the islands from the extreme sharp slopes to the jagged rocks. With back breaking labor, men hauled the bricks for the tower in bundles of 4 & 5 on their backs up the steep slopes. Later a mule was used to haul supplies around the station. The mule became the oldest inhabitant of the Island. As a supplement to their meager wages, construction workers and lighthouse keepers, collected murre eggs for food and to market to the San Francisco community as another revenue stream. Many buildings where constructed on the island, first to house only the keepers; during the 1880s their families joined them. Over the next 60 years the Island became home to the many families that lived on the main southeast Farallon Island, under the shadow of the lighthouse. Life was hard on the Island, medical help was 26 miles away and the sea was not always friendly. Disease often swept through unexpectedly, often afflicting children, sometimes causing death. Families had animal’s goats, donkeys and pigs. They tried to plant gardens and trees. A small school was built for the children, and they endured the same events as those on the mainland -- death, disease, birth, gaiety -- they were a tightly woven community of keepers and their kin. The Chronicle has a good write up

1871: Fog signal was replaced by a steam-powered signal. The original Fog signal was unique; it was powered by air compressed through a natural blowhole. The signal suffered the shortcoming of being noiseless in quiet sea – a time when fog often appears.

1881: Pacific Egg Company is evicted

1900: Weather Bureau sets up a radio station.

1909: President Theodore Roosevelt signed Executive Order No. 1043 in, creating the Farallon Reservation, protecting the northern islands of the chain.

1913: Navy took over the Weather Bureau buildings. They put buildings on the Island for their staff and radio equipment

1939: The United States Coast Guard took over the lighthouse. Coast Guardsmen replaced the lighthouse keepers

1942: Residents increase to 78 living on the Island, most ever.

1944: SS Henry Bergh, a troop ship, hit the west end of the Islands, all hands where saved

1953: Lighthouse is automated

1961: The 1st Order Fresnel lens was replaced by a automated aerobeacon, the beacon was placed atop of the tower. All families removed from the Island

1967: Biologists come to the island to study nature.

1970: The light is fully updated, eliminating the need for any tending.

1972: The lantern room is removed. The Coast Guard ceases operations; the last guardsman leaves the Island. The Island quickly restores its natural wilderness

2010: Today the lighthouse perched on the Southeast peak is the perfect vantage spot for scientists, as they observe the increasing population of bird life and marine life.

Reference:
Links:

Nps Gov
Farallon Island Marine Sanctuary
The California Academy of Sciences maintains a Farallon Web Cam
Lighthouse Explorer has a photo,
the Coast Guard has a historic photo showing the former lantern,
The San Francisco Chronicle has info on the history of the islands and the lighthouse.
Historical Information from Coast Guard web site:

Content is copyright by Ocairdestudio 2009

Mile Rock

Location:
Located on the south side of the entrance to San Francisco Bay west of the Golden Gate Bridge.
Directions:
A Coastal Trail to a viewing area can be accessed via the parking lot at Lincoln Park at the end of El Camino Del Mar/48th Ave. (From Ocean Beach, follow Point Lobos Avenue north past the Cliff House and the Sutro Bath ruins. Turn left at the traffic lights on El Camino Del Mar/48th Ave. Heading down Point Lobos; make a right turn at the traffic lights on El Camino Del Mar/48th Ave.). Follow the road into the parking lot at Fort Miley/Lincoln Park.

Latitude: 37.79282
Longitude: -122.510375
Status: Active
Year established: 1906
Latitude: 37 deg 47 min 33 sec N
Longitude: 122 deg 30 min 34 sec W
Height above sea level: 49 feet
Tower Height:40 ft.
Original Optic: 3rd Order, Fresnel, ruby red
Original construction: white caisson with orange bands
Status: automated in 1966, active aid to navigation
Light characteristic: flashing white every 5 seconds, visible for 15 nautical miles, Fog horn: 1 blast every 30 seconds lasting 2 seconds

What is an adventure, if it does not have some sort of intrigue or fun? The intrigue can take many forms. Is the weather going to cooperate? How accessible is the location and what are the opportunities for interactions with the people and the environment. The fun often comes in solving these challenges that beset my journey from the onset to end. Often times I put myself in harms way, not intentionally, but in chasing the prize and to finish the journey so it’s not incomplete. My overall challenge is to take good pictures of all the lighthouses and locations in California. So far I have sat on dismal cliffs as far north as Crescent City, and climbed a volcanic 300 ft as far South as Point Sur. My ambition is to go down to San Diego and work my way up the coast. I have been on ferries and boats, stayed in dinghy motels, Drank wine on mountain tops, surfed the net in the wilderness, saw cows on the lurch on the side mountains above the clouds as if they where mountain goats, saw a medley of American flags in a trunk, in the midst of woods, watched big and small seals mate, met the most wonderful people and got drunk on nature, now that’s an adventure.

When I arrive at a lighthouse location, I am uncertain as what to expect, it could be totally demolished, vandalized, or might be inaccessible because the coast guard still has ownership, like Yerba Buena. I quickly scan the site looking for light, structures, uniqueness and whatever works for image capture. I stroll around the marina, harbors, parking lots, cliffs, beaches and at times climb the sides of Mountains. Some more challenges for the future is to learn scuba diving, horseback riding, take a ride in a helicopter, fishing boat, and kayak to get to some of these sites. The weather is another challenge, from blue skies to a dull overcast grayness. At times because of the grayness of the weather and or the conditions of the lighthouse grounds and structures, I have to improvise, and promise myself a return journey. At times I wish I had a video camera with me on these trips to try and capture the uniqueness of the moment, I am also trying new ways to present my images to the unsuspecting world. Maybe I might find a way of the old masters, such as Cezanne, Picasso,Seurat or even some Modern day artists for drawing inspiration.

It was around 10:30 I arrived at my Brother Eddie’s house. The day was dark and grey; I was hoping that it would burn off by afternoon. We decided that we would go and have breakfast somewhere near the Ocean Beach or Point Lobos Ave, and wait for the blanket of fog to burn off, we knew the weather in San Francisco is unpredictable, it can be foggy one minute and the next the sun can be shining from a nice blue sky. So it’s always a gamble even in the summer time to visit San Francisco. We dropped by Starbucks and picked up a few coffees and we where on our way. It was a quick run on highway 280, and turnoff towards the zoo, which brought us to the waterfront beach.

As we got closer to the Ocean Beach front, near the cliff house on Point Lobos avenue, the fog looked real menacing, it was dense and the waves on the shoreline came crashing with a load roar, that gave a hauntingly cold feeling, not at all welcoming, and it was already crossing our minds that maybe we should be heading south towards our other favorite haunts, Point Montara and Pigeon Point. Driving towards the cliff house we spotted Beach Chalet restaurant and decided we would drop in there for breakfast.

 Breakfast was not too bad, it would have been a lot better if they did not plaster garlic all over the potatoes. We both had the same items, eggs, sausage, wheat toast, potatoes, coffee and orange juice. Eddie wanted some pancakes but he was out of luck only served Mon – Fri. Also the atmosphere was a bit yuppie and pricey about $50 for both of us, Eddie paid. Beach Chalet is interesting place to visit, some large murals of the history of the area on the walls and some great models of golden gate park, certainly a place of interest for tourists to visit.
We continued to observe the dense fog and the waves pounding the beach as we leisurely ate our breakfast, the fog looked like it had settled for the day and was not about to budge. After breakfast we wandered around the beach chalet building, it is an interesting place, located just off the Ocean Beach; the downstairs of the building is filled with lots of pictures, stories and models of the History of the park with a large scale model showing the park’s layout. We had breakfast in the upstairs part of restaurant

My vehicle was parked on a nearby road, which was close to a giant windmill called Wilhelmina windmill park, In case the Mile Rock lighthouse trip was not going to work out, I would at least get some pictures of the windmill. We spent some time in the park before continuing our quest for mile rock; I helped my brother Eddie with the use of a DSLR. I lent him my Canon 40D with a 17-40mm lens. I watched the excitement as he used a semi professional camera. He moved around the park as if the Windmill was his model. Looking for variations and different perspectives; shooting windmills can be as exciting as shooting lighthouses; they bring you back to a world gone into the fading recesses of our minds. To try and salvage what is gone, becomes the job of the photographer, to move from pretty pictures to ones that encapsulates meaning. In my minds eye, I have to do is see the windmill working in its heyday as I would see a lighthouse. This is where my form of art lies. It’s developing the ability to open a persons mind to another world, precept, idea or vision.

Finding Lincoln Park was not too hard, it was just North of the Cliff house, that’s going uphill, there is a cross roads with a traffic light. It can be called 48th avenue or El Camino Del Mar. We went up the hill and turned left, into Fort Miley/Lincoln Park and parked in the parking lot. It’s free. We followed the path down towards the water, turned right and made our way towards the golden gate bridge. About a ¼ of a mile in on the trail, there is a good view spot with benches for looking out over the bay. When we arrived at Lincoln Park, the fog was still hanging over the bay and was quiet close to shore. Not too many people about, a few volunteers planting and tilling the hillside. And a few tourists trying to get a picture with the golden gate bridge in the background. The weather was on the chilly side, from a distance we could hear the fog horn blaring out its dire warnings in the background. With the dense fog and the sound of the Foghorn, you realized why they needed a station here at mile rock. It was also very surreal, it reminded me of a scene in the Humphrey Bogart movie Casa Blanca, Characters Louis and Rick walk into the fog.

Loaded with our cameras, we strolled along the coastal path, looking out into the fog laden waters for the lighthouse, at first we did not see the lighthouse, and then it appeared ever so dimly from behind the fog. It was like a giant striped mushroom appearing ever so dimly; almost eerily, combined with the foghorn and the Golden Gate bridge it was twilight shot. My attitude is to accept, what you are given, because in a moment everything could be gone. I snapped a few pictures. As we continued to stroll, the fog continued to retreat and a picturesque scene unfolded before our eyes, the bridge and its two towers protruded above the thick blanket of fog. The sun shone on the fog, and it appeared like a white giant cigar sitting under the bridge and the mountains on the other side of the bay basked in heavens light as they rose above the fog. It was as if the world was changing before our eyes, click, click, click. We got some pretty pictures. I could see Eddie was taking a serious interest in working with the Dslr camera. I had set the 40D on AV and this allowed him think only about the basics, strap around the neck, clean lens, and how to hold the camera. I kept the technical stuff to the minimum.

We meandered along the trail a bit further, maybe for a mile or two. Some incredibly steep climbs or steps, Eddie is just as nuts as I am when it comes to pushing our bodies. His back must have driven him crazy with the pain. My knee, even though I had a knee brace was singing aloud with pain. But of course that was not going to stop us from following this trail. The nature trail provided a number of places to take some wonderful shots and allowed me to teach Eddie about the trickery light plays with the camera. We came to area on the trail where I could see the Arch of the Golden gate bridge, just about where fort Point is located. I thought if I waited a few minutes the fog would pull back, so I could get a good shot of the bridge and Fort Point. But it was not to be. The constant blaring of the foghorn could be heard coming though the fog. It sounded almost eerily that there was danger in the fog. Even as I write this I still hear the mourning blare “BEEEEEEE-Ohhhh” of the foghorn in my ears. It’s like one of those Film noir movies, standing on the wharf, and far-off in the night, through the misty fog, the deep sound of a foghorn can be heard. It can be a romantic sound, if you’re a lover waiting ashore for your loved one come in on the ship, or a signal of danger cliffs or rocks ahead. On the water, it blares out “Here is danger!” and echoes. “Stay well clear.“. With no clearing of the fog, we decided it was time to turn back.

On our return trek, we met, a young couple where the young man was having breathing problems climbing the steps. An elderly group of English people from Manchester England sitting at one the state rest spots on the steps, we passed a few moments of joviality with this group and as the Sun was picking its way out from the clouds so where more and more people appearing on the trail. It was like a new day, Sun and Blue skies. We turned a bend in the road, near Mile Rock Beach and there was our lighthouse, without its main tower, yet it looked great, it was a orange stripped mushroom, the top had been leveled so that it was a helipad. The sun had finally won out over the fog. I could see right over to the other side of the bay. I could see Point Bonita and Point Diablo and at the Bridge Fort Point. This had the makings for a great day.
We finished our day shooting, noticed the young volunteers had finished taking care of the plants. Made our way to my SUV and then decided we would have a late lunch or an early dinner. It was around 4:30 pm, we dropped into a restaurant on the corner of 48th, Seal Rock Inn, my advice stay away. The food is cheap and so is everything else. Coffee tasted as if it was burned, the fries had no taste, as for the fish, it was not caught fresh from the bay. It looked as there was a mini convention for some old bikers going on as we ate. We enjoyed the remainder of the day, and took the long way home and enjoyed the scenery.
History:

1889 November, The fog bell at Fort Point, at times could not be heard at Mile Rocks a pair of stones about half a mile north of Point Lobos in San Francisco and a Mile south of the mid channel of the main shipping lanes coming into the Golden Gate Strait. Considered to be hazardous due to fog and strong currents, building on top of the rocks or dynamiting them was not considered practical. The Lighthouse Service Board Placed a bell buoy, near the area of the rocks. The strong currents of the waters would often submerge the buoy and set it adrift.
1890 The ineffective buoy was removed.

1901 February 22, the worst ship disaster in San Francisco history took place. The steamer, City Rio Janeiro from Hong Kong ran aground at Fort Point Ledge. As it entered the Golden Gate there was a heavy fog, the warning bell from Fort point was not heard, they ran aground and In approximately 8 minutes the steamer sunk, and 100 to 200 souls where lost. The public outcry for better infrastructure to keep ships safe was heard by Congress and funds where appropriated for the construction of a lighthouse at Mile Rocks. Just North of Point Lobos, at the mouth of the bay, was two large rocks that edged in and out of the water, disappearing with the onslaught of waves. The larger of these rocks 30ft by 40ft at high water, "Mile Rocks," was selected for the building of the lighthouse.

1904. James A. McMahon, set out with a crew of skilled construction workers, when they saw the challenge of working on the small, barnacled wave-washed rock, they turned down work because of safety issues. McMahon recruited a group of deep-water sailors from the waterfront - less skilled as construction workers, but familiar with hazards of the sea. They arrived on the job by jumping from a small boat to the rock, often ending up in the water. The Rio Rey was anchored nearby to provide living quarters for the crew. The lighthouse is considered to be one of America's greatest engineering feats. The Mile Rock Lighthouse was the only caisson style lighthouse on the west coast, described by some as a steel or metal wedding cake. A good portion of the rock was blasted to provide a level foundation. 4ft thick walls, built 35ft high of concrete cosseted by steel plating was the foundation base of the 3 tiered telescoping steel towers. A water cistern and fuel tanks where located within the 35ft base. Steel and concrete in the foundation alone weighed 1,500 tons. The first tier housed the fog signal apparatus, the 2nd tier was the keeper’s quarters, 2 stories, the 1st story had the dayroom, office, and kitchen and the 2nd story the sleeping quarters and bathroom, with the lantern room and storage room on the 3rd tier. The lantern room with its cross hatched windows housed a 3rd order fixed Fresnel lens.

1906 Feb 15th, Mile Rocks joined the sentinels on the west coast with beacon and blare of the fog horn. The light was illuminated by an oil vapor lamp, housed in a Funck 3rd order fixed Fresnel lens. A 3 sec blast every 27 seconds came from a 10" air whistle; operated by duplicate 20 hp Hornsby-Akroyd oil engine. The lighthouse had a crew of 4. Because the living area was so small, families could not live in the lighthouse. The light keeper’s family lived ashore and the light keepers rotated duties. Because Mile Rocks was so isolated, and there was no escaping the blast of the fog signal day or night. the Coast Guard relieved the men one week off for every two weeks worked. Getting to the Light Station involved maneuvering a small boat, at times in the midst of large swells, under a 40ft boom extended over the water to scale a rope ladder (Jacobs Ladder) lowered from the catwalk above to the rocking boats below, from bobbing decks the keeper had to snag the Jacob’s ladder suspended from the tower’s catwalk, and make a 30 ft ascent to the lighthouse tower, occasionally the keeper would be knocked from the ladder. Despite the risks Light Keeper Lyman Woodruff remaind on mile Rocks for 18yrs.

1960's, was the beginning of the end for Mile Rocks, The coast guard deemed the station too difficult to access and maintain they decided over public outcry to automate it.
1966 August, The conversion was completed. The upper 2 tiers were removed and a heli-pad created. Solar panels powered the light station. Air horns served as the fog signal and the Fresnel lens was replaced by an aero beacon and moved to the lantern room in Old Point Loma San Diego, at an expense of $110,000.

1992 Ending another tradition, the Coast Guard stopped the distinctive foghorns replacing them with electronic signals. Protests from romantics all over San Francisco brought some of the horns back.

2009: Today, The white 85-ft tower at Mile Rocks cannot be seen anymore. It now appears like a stubby striped mushroom, its former glory gone.

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References
1. Guardians of the Golden Gate, Ralph Shanks, 1990.
2. Lighthouses of the Pacific, Jim Gibbs, 1986.
3. Lighthouse of California, Bruce Roberts & Ray Jones,1930
4. California Lighthouse Life,Wayne C. Wheeler,2000
5. Umbrella Guide to California Lighthouses, Sharlene and Ted Nelson, 1993.

Content is copyright by O'Cairdestudio 2010

Yerba Buena

Location San Francisco Bay
N, 122° 21′ 45″ W
37.8073, -122.3625
Year first lit: 1875
Automated: 1958
Foundation: Masonry
Construction: Wood
Tower shape: Octagonal & cylindrical
Height: 25 ft
Original lens: Fifth order Fresnel lens
Characteristic: white light occulted every 4 s
Admiralty number: G4140
ARLHS number:USA-908
USCG number:6-4595

This light station is situated off the bay bridge, near treasure Island, I am still trying to get on the Island but it's difficult as the USCG controls the island and the commodore lives on the Island. I set off to find the original location of the Tinsley Island light station. That was between Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz Island, home to two Lighthouses Fort Point and Alcatraz. It was an interesting day, blue skies and lots of yachts on the water front. This Gave me lots of time to take pictures of the racing boats with Alcatraz Island as the backdrop. From there I made my way over to the Bay bridge, San Francisco side where I knew I would have a view of Yeurba Buena Island. I knew I would be extremely limited on what images I could take.

This was also week one of being hobbled, my knee was in a brace and I could barely stand the pain as I made my way from the parking lot to the edge of the pier. Only when I arrived at the pier did I realize I could have driven in. I did not meet too many people on the trip, an African American parking lot attendant, who wanted to tell me about his Vietnam experience, A few Hispanic teenagers hanging out at the pier, A would be photographer taking model pictures, and an outdoor hamburger joint that had its followers drinking beer.

So I set up my camera, with 400mm lens, Then I added 1.4 extender, Then I added 2.0 extender, and finally used my 40d. Being so far away my options where limited, I waited for a few ship, or yachts, or speed boats. In the end I built a panoramic view. I need a boat for this one, so it's a definite return. After I finished I went to the diner for a Burger and fries. It was definitely a good burger and quite reasonable in price. Coffee was not so good, but drinkable. Stay with the water or buy a beer.

History:

By the early 1870's numerous ferries where passing the island. Yerba Buena, meaning good herb, the herb mint was supposed to have healing powers, comes from early Spanish. This was not the only name for the Island, it was also called Sea Bird Island, and Goat Island. One story was Goat Island was due to large number goats brought to island by 49er gold miners. And another story for Goat Island was due to the Costanoan Indians who would herd goats on the island, later displaced by the army. In 1873 the Lighthouse service moved its depot from Mare Island to the south side of yerba Buena. This was the main supply center for up and down the coast, it also supplied the lightships. The supply tenders brought paychecks, mail, food, fuel and other supplies to the operating stations and lightships.

1874, a fog bell was installed on the southwest end of Yerba Buena Island; the bell came from Point Conception. It was as a backup system for the 2, 10" steam whistles that were built on a close by plane indentation cut out of the stony isle. The twin fog signal building, where flanked by A large water tank and coal house. 1875, Just above the indentation, the Victorian style Yerba Buena Lighthouse was built.
The lighthouse stood by the fog signal on a 50-foot cliff; The short, ornate tower was constructed of wood. A fifth-order Fresnel lens from the Yaquina Bay Lighthouse, which was discontinued in 1873, was placed in the lantern room. About eighty yards further up the island's slope and constructed in a similar style to the tower stands the two-story keepers' dwelling. The historic postcard at right shows the station with all its structures intact. Note that the cliff face in front of the lighthouse was painted white to help mark the island.

he lighthouse tender made what was called "the shortest tender run", a journey of just a couple hundred yards around the island to deliver supplies. At the lighthouse landing, a derrick with a steam powered winch would hoist up the sacks of coal and other needed supplies. Food shipments would be brought up the "goat trail," a path that connected the station to the depot.

Keeper John Kofod served two stints at Yerba Buena. During his service as assistant keeper, his only child, Anna, met and married Walter Fanning, a radioman at the Naval Radio Station on the island. The Kofod's first grandchild, also named Walter, was born in the keeper's dwelling on Yerba Buena. In 1914, Kofod accepted an appointment as head keeper at East Brother Island. He would serve on that smaller island, just up the bay, until 1921, when he returned to Yerba Buena as head keeper.

Keeper Kofod was fond of taking his grandchildren down to the fog signal on New Year's Eve, where they were allowed to give three long blasts of the steam whistle as a New Year's salute to the passing ferries. The children were thrilled as the ferries responded in like manner. Walter Fanning Jr. would later play a key role in helping to save and restore the East Brother Lighthouse

In 1933, a tunnel was bored through Yerba Buena Island to serve as a link between the east and west sections of the Bay Bridge. The bridge was finished in 1936, the same year that construction began on a new "island" built on the shoals just north of Yerba Buena Island. Composed of mud dredged from the bay and transported down from the Sacramento delta, the island was named Treasure Island for the gold that was likely contained in all that silt. Originally built for use as an airport, the island instead was home to a world's fair in 1939. With the start of World War II, the island was turned over to the Navy, which used it as a station until 1993.

Even with the lights on the nearby bridge, the Yerba Buena Lighthouse remains operational to this day. Personnel were removed from the station in 1958 when it was automated. Today the keepers' dwelling is home to a Coast Guard admiral, which is likely why the station is in such excellent condition. The area of the island that served as the lighthouse depot is home to Coast Guard Group San Francisco and Aids to Navigation Team San Francisco.

References

Guardians of the Golden Gate, Ralph Shanks, 1990

The Legend of Yerba Buena Island, Marcia Boyes, 1936.Umbrella Guide to California Lighthouses, Sharlene and Ted Nelson, 1993

Lighthouses of the Pacific, Jim Gibbs, 1986.

Fort Point

This weekend Eddie's family headed off to Tahoe. I was thinking about going to Tahoe also to visit Rubicon and Sugar Pines lighthouses. But that was for another day in the future. On Friday I called Eddie to see how he was doing. His back is really causing him problems and he appears to be in a lot of pain. I said I was going to Fort Point on Saturday, immediately I knew the bug had grabbed him. He said to give him a call later on during the day.

This trip was to the Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco. As usual Jean prepared the coffee, it was loaded, and Garmin programmed We set off towards the Golden Gate Bridge. The Fort Point lighthouse is located right under the bridge at the South End. We parked on the hill near the Presidio houses and made our way down a trail towards the bay. The scenery around here is beautiful, most people make their way towards the Golden Gate and miss the breathtaking views of the Bay.
As we made our way down, I could see the tip of the Lighthouse under the Bridge as it sat atop the fort. I could also see the light flashing from Alcatraz. From the hill, I looked down upon the Keepers hut and the saving station. Their is a story that this the only place that both are on the same ground.
From where I parked my SUV to the lighthouse was more than 1/2 mile. The fog was in and the skies real grey. On the shore front, we met a couple from Galway. I took a picture of them under the bridge. Later on I met another family from the Midwest, and I took their picture outside fort point.

Today, I found out it was a history event day. The fort had a special event, in which people dress in costumes of the 1850's. The fort was garrisoned by The American Civil War Association. They brought the fort to life with the activity of re-enacting the Civil War. Dressed in colorful uniforms and dresses and suits of the day,they marched, and drilled with a brass band. Their activities included cannon, rifle demonstrations and talks on soldier life. They played the part of the soldiers and families that lived in the fort in the time of the civil war. I was to see soldiers marching drills, military bands, military quarters, and re-enactment of the telegraph.
On my way to the top of the fort, which was quite breezy and cold. I had the opportunity to make my way around the different corridors and also get a perspective of the lighthouse as it sat underneath the Golden Gate Bridge. I had my 40D with 24-105 lens and 5D with a 70-200. At each level as I made my way up the stairs, I could take my shots. What is unique about this trip is the fort itself. It is a well maintained brick building, keeping most of its character from the early days. Its a pity more people don't find this hidden treasure.
History

This was the second lighthouse in California, built in 1853, around the same time as Alcatraz. Originally the building was a California style cottage with a lantern room on the roof because the military decided they needed the area for defence they pulled down the structure. Its third order Fresnel lens was never installed, but diverted to Point Pinos. 1855, a new lighthouse was constructed between the seawall and the Fort. It was a 36ft tower which housed a fifth order Fresnel Lens. The exposure to the elements of the pacific ocean caused some major erosion problems and this lighthouse lasted only 8 years. When the seawall was repaired in 1863, the second lighthouse was removed.
1864, the third lighthouse was built. It was a 27ft, 9 sided, metal tower placed atop of the fort, anchored with cables to the bluff, which was 83ft above sea level. It housed a fifth order Fresnel Lens,a black spiral staircase was used to access it. A seventy-pound weight, which required winding every two and a half hours, was used to revolve a fifth-order lens The Tower itself was white and the lantern room black. This is the current tower, I photographed on this trip. 1902, the lens was upgraded to a fourth-order lens, which produced alternating red and white flashes.



The fog signal, was originally a bell, housed outside the fort and difficult to access. The bell was located under the gun emplacements outside the fort. The keeper had to climb down a ladder from the fort to get to the bell, which could be quite dangerous when the winds where high. This signal was considered by many as insufficient, it was not until some major shipwrecks, 140 lives lost with the Rio De Janerio, considered the worst, that something was done. 1904, the bell was replaced by a fog trumpet and in 1911 the trumpet was replaced by a siren.



One of its longest serving keepers was James Rankin, he served as principle keeper for 41 years and retired at fort point. He was acknowledged in saving at least 18 lives.



The fort that this lighthouse sits on is quite impressive, its architecture from the period is well maintained and holds a significant historical importance to civil war era. Even though it never saw military action, it was planned as the most formidable defence that America could offer to a naval attack on California. Its precivil war canons became obsolete, they never fired a shot in anger or warfare, it was remodeled as a detention barrack during WWII,it was used to house unmarried officers and trade schools.



In the 1930's when the Golden Gate bridge was being built it was recommended that the Fort be demolished, which would have also meant the end of the lighthouse. Chief engineer, Joseph Strauss saw the architectural significance of the fort and drew plans which safely allowed construction to build over the fort. Due to construction in 1934 the lighthouse was turned off.It had survived many a change including the 1906 earthquake, but the bridge overshadowed it and obscured its light. 1959 a group of retired military officers and civil engineers created the Fort Point Museum and got it recognised as a Historical site.
References
Umbrella Guide to California Lighthouses (2nd ed.)
Fort Point Lightkeepers